Champagne Taste

“Wine Generalizations"

2012-03-05T10:04:00.000-05:00

Generalizations about wine can be pretty frustrating. If I had a dollar for every time I heard someone say, “I don’t drink Chardonnay,” I could retire comfortably. Or, “Pinot Noir is my favorite.” Or one of the things that confuses me most, when I hear that someone only drinks white or only drinks red - and seems to have no interest in budging on that. In my mind, I’m thinking, “How is that even possible?” Yes, it could be worse - they could be singing the praises of White Zinfandel.

But the question in my mind is usually, “Do you even know what Chardonnay tastes like?” or, “Do you even know what Pinot Noir Tastes like?” and so far, I haven’t actually asked anyone that. No, I’m not expecting everyone to be able to pick out the grape they think is their most loved or hated in a blind taste test, but at least try and be familiar with the characteristics you like in a wine. It might just help you understand why you prefer one grape type or producing region or style over another, or help you to find more wines you might like very much.

I’m often curious about people’s love or hate for Chardonnay, and while the debate of “oak or no oak” continues (I wish that would come to an end), I do often wonder if it’s the characteristics imparted by oak contact that attract or repel wine drinkers. For me, the “kiss of oak” is just about right - some baked orchard fruit and gentle caramel and butterscotch characteristics and just a bit more weight than the unoaked counterpart are what appeal to me in a Chardonnay. But I do realize that might be an acquired taste and not everyone wants a white wine that tastes and feels like that. For them, perhaps an unoaked or very lightly oaked Chardonnay with lemon and white mineral notes might be best. But instead of making a blanket statement about not drinking any Chardonnay, it pays to see what Chardonnay - French or American, oaked or unoaked, is best for each individual drinker’s palate. Last week I offered a glass of Chardonnay to someone who said she doesn’t drink Chardonnay, and what was the result? “Oh, it tastes like...caramel! This is very nice. Is it really Chardonnay?” Yes, it’s really Chardonnay.

Chardonnay - Chablis, France and unoaked

Chardonnay - Sonoma, California and oaked

Pinot Noir, in my opinion, is at the other end of the spectrum. It’s been trendy to drink Pinot Noir for the past several years and while lots of people probably won’t admit it, it’s largely because Hollywood said so. So when I pour a Pinot Noir, I like to ask, “Oh you like Pinot Noir? Good. French or American?” And my favorite response is usually, “Is there a difference?” That’s perfect, because it gives me a chance to explain a number of differences between the New World and Old World styles of Pinot Noir. The differences are many, and each individual palate is different, so it’s a good idea for the “Pinot Noir drinker” to determine which style they prefer - the bigger New World style Pinot Noir, with higher alcohol content, fuller bodied, and characteristics of raspberry and macerated fruit, or the Old World, Burgundy style Pinot Noir, with elegant texture, often higher acidity and lower alcohol content, and characteristics of cherry and earthiness.

Pinot Noir - Burgundian style

Pinot Noir - New World style

I’m pretty opposed to generalizations, especially with wine. No two of them are the same, and wine drinkers might do themselves a disservice by neglecting at least to know some of the characteristics of the wines they enjoy, and remaining open minded enough to try others and make fair comparisons.

Finger Lakes vs. The World

2012-03-02T11:20:00.001-05:00

A few nights ago I attended the “Finger Lakes vs. The World” tasting at Spina Restaurant in NYC. Even though I live in New York, I have very little experience with Finger Lakes wines - in fact, this winter I tried some for the first time - all Shaw Vineyard wines. The purpose of the event was to blind taste Finger Lakes wines versus European wines of the same grape type and compare them.

Match #1 was Riesling, and the wines were the Hermann J. Wiemer Magdalena Vineyard Dry Riesling 2010 (Finger Lakes) and the Messmer Muschelkalk Riesling Kabinett 2009 (Pfalz, Germany). I tasted the German Riesling first and noted its very bright acidity and citrus characteristics with just a hint of effervescence. For me, the wine was a bit too austere (which was a surprise, considering I prefer austere Riesling) and a bit acidic for my palate. I then tried the Wiemer Riesling - lovely and light, with characteristics of soft orchard fruit and white blossoms. I wasn’t sure which wine was German and which was Finger Lakes, but the hint of fizz in the first wine I tried made me guess that it was the German, and in fact I was right. The pleasant surprise - I strongly preferred the Finger Lakes Riesling.

Match #2 was Cabernet Franc. Anyone who has read my blog posts over the past year is probably aware that I don’t care much for Cabernet Franc on account of the green bell pepper characteristics usually present in New World Cabernet Franc - until about a month ago when I tasted the Shaw Cabernet Franc and for the first time I enjoyed a Cabernet Franc, as there are no bell pepper notes - just dark fruit, smooth spices, and expression of earth. As I had expected, I preferred the Shaw Cabernet Franc 2006 at this tasting as well, and it remains the only New World Cabernet Franc I’ve enjoyed to date. I did actually like the other Cabernet Franc, the Monteforche 2009 (Veneto, Italy), for its aroma and flavors of berry and earth - however, I strongly preferred the structure and texture of the Shaw Cabernet Franc.

Match #2 - Cabernet Franc

Match #3 was Merlot - and just as some readers may recall my feelings on Cabernet Franc, they might also recall that I’m a fan of Merlot - I was was pretty enthusiastic about comparing a New World Merlot and an Old World Merlot. The Finger Lakes Merlot was the Fox Run Vineyards Drink New York Merlot 2007, and the Old World was the Chateau Edmus St. Emilion Grand Cru 2008 (Bordeaux, France). Upon swirling the Fox Run Merlot in the glass, I immediately detected green bell pepper aromas along with fruit and some earth, but I just couldn’t get past the bell pepper notes and after tasting, I was ready to go on the the other wine (at the time, I did not know which wine was the Finger Lakes and which was the Bordeaux). When I tasted the Bordeaux, a blend of Merlot and some Cabernet Franc, I noted dark fruit, spice, and earth, and a full and luscious texture with a long finish - and I found my favorite.

Match #3 - Merlot

Match #4 was Pinot Noir - Damiani Wine Cellars 2009 (Finger Lakes) and Domaine Dominique Gallois Gevrey Chambertin 2008 (Burgundy, France). I actually had no idea which was the Finger Lakes wine and which was the Burgundy - both were sleek with strong characteristics of bright red fruit and earthiness. I preferred the aromas of the first Pinot I tasted (Damiani) but I preferred the flavor and texture of the second (Domaine Gallois).

My favorite wines of the tasting were the Shaw Cabernet Franc and I enjoyed the Monteforche Cabernet Franc as well, and I really enjoyed the Wiemer Riesling and the Chateau Edmus.

Just Some Wine Research...

2012-02-27T11:36:00.000-05:00

I’ve had some interesting professors teaching classes, but one stands out for a number of reasons - he’s a professor of law where I went to law school, and I took two of his classes. Aside from the fact that he’s a wine collector (which I’ve never spoken to him about actually), he’s an amazing professor due to his dedication to his students and to the field of law. On my first day of class with him, he taught us to research nearly every word we came across in the Uniform Commercial Code. At first it felt like a nuisance and I almost wondered whether it was time well spent, but after we studied some case law with him, he proceeded to tell us that he actually called the attorneys for both sides of each case. In fact, he does that with every case he assigns his students to study. And he extracts every bit of information about everything he teaches. When I realized his level of dedication, suddenly it felt like the very least I should be doing was researching every word of every case or law I read for his class.

Fast forward a few years to now.

Tonight I begin Kevin Zraly’s Windows on the World Wine Course. Our first lesson will be on the white wines of France. Yes, that’s kind of a broad topic, and to prepare, I’ve done some research on some whites I think we might be discussing - grape types, regions, subregions, producers, production methods, classifications, and as I go through his book, and Karen MacNeil’s Wine Bible, and Jancis Robinson’s Oxford Companion to Wine, and online sources, plus my own notes from over the years, one wine term leads me to another, and yesterday I spent most of my day researching some very small subregions in France. And I couldn’t help but think of that very unique professor who taught me the value of understanding every last word of what I’m reading.

Luckily, wine research is a lot more fun than reading the Uniform Commercial Code. Learning about my favorite wines, producers, grapes, regions - it’s so much fun for me that I began my wine research while I was in law school, and sometimes I’d sneak away from my casebooks and UCC and tax code and read about something far more fascinating - and I’d begin asking myself, What’s a “dead arm”? What makes a Montsant smell like slate? Why do crisp whites pair so well with shellfish? Several years later, these questions have evolved to, What’s the difference between Corbu and Manseng? What makes a Jura wine so funky? How long should I leave a 2007 Napa Cabernet in the wine rack to age? And the more answers I seek, the more questions I ask - and it’s exciting, and it makes it so much easier to understand each wine.

Networking with Long Island Wedding Professionals and Pairing Wines with Marneycakes

2012-02-24T09:04:00.000-05:00

This week, Chef Marney White of Marneycakes, Inc. and I worked together again on another networking gathering for wedding professionals and vendors. Aside from how productive these gatherings are, they’re fun as well. For more information on the vendors in attendance, check out Marney’s blog post http://marneycakes.blogspot.com/?v=0

Aside from presenting a few wines at the events while vendors discuss goals and network, I have the pleasure of pairing a few dessert wines to some of Marney’s delicious cakes.

This time with our cheeses (brie and emmentaler), I chose the 2009 Pierre Sparr Alsace Riesling, 2010 E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Rose, and 2009 Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinot Noir. My goal for the evening was to show good quality, dependable wines perfect for transitioning into spring, for under $20, and all of these wines were well received.

The lineup - Pierre Sparr Riesling, E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Rose, Louis Jadot Pinot Noir, Duck Walk Aphrodite Gewurztraminer, and Banfi Rosa Regale Brachetto d’Acqui

At the last networking event, the Riesling I chose was sweet - the Dr. Hans Von Muller Auslese from Mosel, as I had paired it with cakes. This time, I wanted to show a dryer Riesling, Alsace style - light in color with characteristics of lime, gentle spice, and blossom, dryer, bright acidity, and higher alcohol content, and this is the wine I chose to open with. Pierre Sparr has long been one of my favorite Alsatian producers and as usual, the wine did not disappoint. Easy to find in wine shops and relatively inexpensive, my wine racks at home aren’t complete without Riesling and Gewurztraminer from Pierre Sparr.

Next was the dry Rose. It’s one of my regular goals to show a difference between dry Rose and white Zinfandel (I cringe just writing it) - perhaps some wine drinkers have gotten their start by drinking white Zinfandel, but it pains me, how often I have to tell people that Zinfandel is actually red, and that if they want a pink wine, by all means, go for a dry Rose. I tried so many dry Rose last year and the easiest one to locate in wine shops is from the always dependable E. Guigal, from Cotes du Rhone - a fairly inexpensive and very food friendly blend of 50% Grenache, 40% Cinsault, 5% Syrah, and 5% Mourvedre, bright pink with characteristics of red fruit, strawberry, and a bit of earth. Now, how could anyone choose white Zinfandel over such a fun dry Rose?

The last wine before the cake and wine pairing was the Louis Jadot Pinot Noir. I’m well aware that lots of people have been enjoying Pinot Noir these past several years - in fact, when we were discussing wine’s increasing popularity in the United States, Marney pointed out that we owe that, at least in part, to Sideways - and it’s no secret that Pinot Noir saw an increase in popularity after Sideways. But it was important to me to explain some of the differences between American/New World style Pinot Noir, and French Burgundian Pinot Noir - how the wine I’d be pouring at our gathering would show characteristics of cherry, herb, earthiness, and have bright acidity, and would feel different from American Pinot Noir, and in all likelihood have lower alcohol content. This Pinot Noir was a perfect match with the brie and emmentaler. Louis Jadot is currently my go-to Pinot Noir when pouring for gatherings.

Then it was time for Marney to serve samples of her cakes - and the two cakes she chose were her yellow buttermilk cake with peach-Prosecco filling and almond icing, and the Mexican Hot Chocolate cake. For the yellow cake, I had chosen the 2010 Duck Walk Aphrodite Late Harvest Gewurztraminer (ice wine style), as I usually like to choose at least one wine from our local Long Island wineries. The pairing was perfect, as the wine is sweet and golden, and shows characteristics of lychee (indicative of Gewurztraminer), and ripe orchard fruit including peach and apricot, mirroring the peach flavor in the filling of the cake. With the Mexican Hot Chocolate cake, I had selected the Banfi Rosa Regale Brachetto d’Acqui from Piemonte, a sparkling sweet red perfect for pairing with chocolate desserts. Again, I was very pleased with this pairing. It’s such a fun wine and perfect for ending an evening, especially with chocolate. I love showing the versatility of Italian wine, as so many people associate Italian wine with Chianti and Pinot Grigio only.

Preparing to pair wine with Marneycakes

I look forward to more of our networking events and doing business with such talented, dependable vendors, and of course I look forward to pairing more wines with Marney’s amazing cakes!

Tre Bicchieri NYC 2012

2012-02-20T12:14:00.001-05:00

For some time now, I’ve been spending a lot more time getting better acquainted with French wines, often tasting and researching less common grape types and regions in France, but recently I’ve been giving more consideration to Italian wines (again, including some less common grapes and regions). One thing (among many) I’ve learned is that, for me, there’s a very different “feeling” I get when experiencing wines from France versus from Italy. French wines, especially the likes of Petrus and Cheval Blanc (see my recent post on a blind Bordeaux tasting), give off a vibe to me of royalty among wine, and I respond with a “your majesty” regard for them. Experiencing good French wine, in my mind, is like walking through a museum of priceless works of art, and I’m in awe of what I perceive on the nose and on the palate and how I feel afterward, thinking of the characteristics and emotions that stand out in my memory after the experience. Respect and admiration are among them.

I feel a very different connection with good Italian wine. Perhaps it’s partly my own Italian heritage, perhaps it’s partly how well they pair with my Italian cooking and my family’s Italian cooking, but there’s something else that for a while seemed unidentifiable to me, until very recently. It’s passion that Italian wines seem to give off. There’s something seemingly unpretentious even about the most exquisite of Italian wines, and to quote Rhett Butler, “Dare I name it? Can it be love?” Yes, of course I feel respect and admiration for good Italian wines, but it’s a different emotion I feel when experiencing them. I attended Tre Bicchieri NYC last week and after tasting some of the truly special Italian wines and being astounded by the emotional rush I felt, I can say with confidence that it’s a very different vibe I get from Italian wines than I get from French wines.

Tre Bicchieri NYC 2012

As soon as I got into the event, I looked at the chart of tables, and wondered where to go first. I had received lots of suggestions of which wines to taste first, and usually I head toward lighter whites before anything else, but when I saw Sassicaia’s table, I made my decision very quickly. It was the 2008, and while I knew it would be young, I just wanted that to be the first wine on my palate at the event. As expected, it was youthful, but the dark characteristics were irresistible, so much luscious fruit, bold yet smooth spices, dark flowers, oak, and a hint of “outdoors” with a big, lovely texture that will continue to mature into something even more wonderful. The wine is beautiful and I felt the emotional rush immediately.

The other wine to give me a real emotional rush was the 2008 Tignanello, also youthful but wonderful with elegant characteristics of plenty of dark fruit and spice and oak, and a big texture and feel. There is so much passion to be felt in these wines, and when comparing the experience of the likes of Sassicaia and Tignanello with the experience of Petrus and Cheval Blanc, there really is no comparison. They just give off such different vibes - the big French wines give off a regal feel, and those special Italian wines give off so much passion.

Tre Bicchieri NYC 2012

Aside from Sassicaia and Tignanello, there were countless other wines that left quite an impression. I focused mainly on tasting as many Brunello di Montalcino and Amarone della Valpolicella as possible. My favorite Amarone were the 2007 Tenuta Sant’ Antonio Amarone della Valpolicella Campo dei Gigli (very big, luscious, and dark characteristics); 2007 Musella Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva (more mature in aromas, flavor, and particularly texture and feel than expected, lots of dark fruit characteristics, spice, raisin, and nut); 2004 Bertani Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (beginning to show maturity and lots of richness and elegance); and especially the 2007 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico (wonderful texture, big presence, rich dark fruit and a bit of raisin and spice). My favorite Brunello were the 2004 Tenuta Vitanza Brunello di Montalcino Tradizione (showing maturity and elegance with characteristics of ripe fruit and lots of oak and spice); and 2006 Biondi Santi Tenuta Il Greppo Brunello di Montalcino (ripe and smooth, very sophisticated).

A few other reds that really stood out to me were the 2007 Colpetrone Montefalco Sagrantino (Umbria), which is still a bit young but amazingly good, tannic and very “red” with characteristics of red fruit and baking spices; the 2007 Mastroberardino Taurasi Radici (Campania), with lots of fruit with a hint of funk, nice acidity, and a very clean feel; and the 2009 Palari Rosso del Soprano (Sicilia) with plenty of red fruit, spice, and earth, and quite elegant.

Several whites also left an impression - 2009 Villa Sparina Gavi del Comune di Gavi Monterotondo (Piemonte) which bears resemblance to a good quality Chardonnay with citrus and orchard characteristics, some baked aromas and flavors, some smooth spice, and a slightly creamy texture yet leaves the palate feeling very clean; 2010 Mastroberardino Greco di Tufo (Campania) which is unpretentious, clean, and bright with characteristics of citrus, blossoms, and perhaps a bit of melon; 2010 Graci Etna Bianco (Sicilia), lovely and fun with bright citrus and some floral notes and mineral; and perhaps my favorite white of the tasting, 2010 Livio Felluga Rosazzo Bianco Terre Alte (Fruili Venezia Giulia), a blend of Tocai Friuliano, Pinot Bianco, and Sauvignon Blanc, absolutely lovely with characteristics of bright and smooth fruit and blossom, complex and delicious with a perfectly clean and smooth feel.

The Winter of Rhone

2012-02-17T08:54:00.001-05:00

Like I mentioned a few weeks back, it never really got very cold this winter (fortunately!), so I didn’t open my usual winter go-to wines, which would be bold spicy Shiraz, big Piemonte reds like Barolo and Barbaresco, and of course Napa and Sonoma Cabernet, Bordeaux blends, and Spanish reds. Sure, a few got opened and thoroughly enjoyed, but admittedly, this was the winter of Rhone.

2009 Domaine Brusset Gigondas Tradition Le Grand Montmirail

I’ve always had an affinity for what I believe to be an ideal blend of fruit, spice, and earth, with that hint of wildness and funk and some animal characteristics, and that’s what I tend to look for in most Southern Rhone wines. Something about the personality of a Southern Rhone I find very compelling - it’s like a person with a free spirit trying to keep it tame and reserved, but once poured, it gets wild and borderline aggressive in the glass, with aromas bursting and beckoning, and the outdoorsy characteristics reminding the drinker both on the nose and the palate that many Rhone blends are anything but tame. They are, to me, free spirits - a team of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre bringing out the wine drinker’s appreciation for something less well-behaved, less tame, less reserved.

2010 Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone

In short, Rhone wines make me feel differently than Burgundy, Bordeaux, Toscane, or Piemonte do, and I believe it’s because a very different personality is unleashed whenever a bottle of Rhone is opened, decanted, poured, and enjoyed.

2008 M. Chapoutier Cotes du Rousillon Villages Les Vignes de Bila-Haut

I’ll include perennial favorites from Southern Rhone - Domaine de l’Harmas Chateauneuf du Pape (the red served at my sister’s wedding in 2010) and of course the dependable, inexpensive, and easy-to-find E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone. New Rhone favorite blends from this winter are Chapelle St. Arnoux Vacqueyras, M. Chapoutier Cotes du Roussillon Villages Les Vignes de Bila-Haut, Domaine Brusset Gigondas Tradition Le Grand Montmirail, and a straight Syrah, Saint Cosme Cotes du Rhone. The Southern Rhone wines tend to show characteristics of wild fruit, dark berry, plum, chocolate, dark flowers, spice, black pepper, lots of earth, leather, and roasted meat, and sometimes “animal” characteristics. If it sounds kind of different, that’s because it is. There’s nothing quite like a good Rhone. And I can’t seem to get enough of them.

2006 E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone

2009 Chapelle St. Arnoux Vacqueyras

2006 Domaine de l’Harmas Chateauneuf du Pape

This spring and summer I hope to hunt down some good white Rhone blends, made up of mostly Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, Clairette, Bourboulenc, and Grenache Blanc. The E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc is always enjoyable and dependable, and recently I tried the Ogier Caves des Papes Cotes du Rhone Heritages Blanc that was fascinating for sure. I’d also like to locate more Rhone dry rose. Last spring I tried the E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Rose as it’s very easy to find in wine shops, and I’d like to try some more.

2009 E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc

2008 Ogier Caves des Papes Cotes du Rhone Heritages Blanc

2010 E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Rose

Good Things Come To Those Who Wait

2012-02-13T12:39:00.001-05:00

When I was really young, I was a fan of Mister Rogers (confession, I’m still a fan of Mister Rogers). My Mom says that it’s as if he was speaking directly to me, that the things he said perfectly described my thoughts, my fears, my behavior, etc. Mister Rogers, in one of my favorite songs of his, tells us that, “I like to take my time, I mean that when I want to do a thing, I like to take my time to do it right.” He then goes on to explain that hurrying can cause a person to make mistakes, and that, in order to do something - anything - correctly, it’s best to take your time.

Anyone who knows me also knows that I’ve always embraced this mentality, taking my time with just about everything I do, in order to do it right. To this day, I still tell people that I can’t really afford to make many mistakes. The few times in my life that I’ve made some really unnecessary and costly mistakes were situations where I allowed myself to be hurried. But the only thing worse than making such mistakes is making mistakes and failing to learn from them. And for me, it was just a matter of remembering that in fact, I’m far better off taking my time to do things correctly. I’m still questioned on that point regularly - Why do I need to proceed so cautiously? Why do I need to take so long to make a decision, and then act on it? Am I going to take forever? What am I waiting for? For me, the answer is simple - timing is everything, and I need to take my time.

Have you ever opened a bottle prematurely? Do you remember why it happened? Do you remember what it felt like to experience a wine that wasn’t nearly ready to be opened?

Chances are, the wine felt a bit uptight and tannic. Ideally, you want to time it properly when you open a bottle. Granted, not all bottles are intended for aging, and those should be consumed young. But it pays to do some research and determine when is the best time to open a particular bottle. Once a wine has aged properly, it becomes smooth, and the aromas (at this point we’d call it the bouquet) and flavors have reached their potential, and the wine is at its best. A white wine would now appear a bit golden in the glass, and the color of a red would tend to lean toward brickish. What maturity and personality the wine will show, and how smooth it will feel. It will be like a person with experience and sensibility and confidence that allows the person to show their full potential, without any awkwardness or uncertainty - smooth, elegant, and compelling.

The key is patience. When you buy a wine that’s intended for aging, you must respect this, and find a cool place to store the bottle, where it will not be disturbed. And you need to be patient. As the saying goes, “Good things come to those who wait.” And I’m perfectly comfortable waiting for a bottle to mature properly, even if it takes years. I want to treat it as it was intended, and I want to allow it to reach its full potential. I want to maximize the experience, each time I open a bottle.

I have a few wines that I’ve been waiting for, and I will be opening them within the next year or so, some California but mostly French and Italian - and some more over the next few years, and others will not be opened in the near future. Last year, my parents bought me a bottle of 2007 Far Niente Oakville Cabernet Sauvignon - that bottle needs to age. This past Christmas, one of the bottles they bought me was the 2007 Freemark Abbey Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, and it needs to wait a few years. And last week I bought myself a bottle of 2009 Domaine Tempier Bandol La Tourtine, and that one really needs to wait a while. So while those three and a bunch of other bottles that I dare not disturb are putting a great deal of temptation in my path, I’d rather wait until I’m fairly certain that they’re ready to be opened.

While I won’t advise you to be too deliberate in all areas of your life (although I’m guessing most would agree with me on that), I will highly recommend that you do your research with your wine bottles and make sure you wait patiently for them to be ready.

Not only sands and gravels

Were once more on their travels,

But gulping muddy gallons

Great boulders off their balance

Bumped heads together dully

And started down the gully.

Whole capes caked off in slices.

I felt my standpoint shaken

In the universal crisis.

But with one step backward taken

I saved myself from going.

A world torn loose went by me.

Then the rain stopped and the blowing,

And the sun came out to dry me.

Robert Frost, “One Step Backward Taken”

Unique Reds at Sacramone’s

2012-02-10T11:10:00.002-05:00

Yesterday I got to visit an Italian restaurant that recently opened on Long Island, called Sacramone’s. I knew the food would be excellent and of course it was. But after reading over their wine list, I was really excited to do some sampling. Sacramone’s wine list includes some “safe” wines, but also offers lots of lesser known Italian wines that pair perfectly with their fantastic dishes.

First was the Zimberno Aglianico Del Vulture Michele Laluce (Basilicata), a fairly deep red wine, smooth with characteristics of dark fruit, earth, and a bit of smokiness, and very food friendly.

The next wine was the Mutro Melissa Rosso Superiore Cantina Val Di Neto (Calabria). This blend of Gaglioppo and Greco Nero felt slightly lighter in body than the first, and initially bore some resemblance to Carmenere, in that it shows lots of fruit characteristics laced with a bit of bell pepper. However, the pepper doesn’t get in the way of the other characteristics, allowing the fruit to show. This is another food friendly wine.

I’m pretty sure my favorite was the next wine - Montefalco Sagrantino Terre de Trinci (Umbria) - it’s a dark red wine with big characteristics of dark fruit, smooth spices, earth, and dry crushed flowers, and a lovely texture.

Before leaving, I also got to try a fascinating red from Sardegna, the Rei Cannonau Di Sardegna Capo Ferrato, a different sort of wine with characteristics of dry fruit, rum, spice, and also a briny characteristic. It’s probably the best wine from Sardegna that I’ve ever tasted.

Each wine was very unique, expressive of its place of origin, and clearly not at all tampered with by their winemakers. For me, it’s more fun and more interesting when a wine is allowed to show what makes it different and sets it apart from others. Too much consistency takes away a wine’s identity, and we’re left with more of the same things we see day in and day out. But this was not the case with the wines at Sacramone’s - they each have an identity, and it’s very clear that their winemakers took care to protect the identity of the grapes and let the wines speak for themselves.

Presentation of Wine

2012-02-06T11:04:00.000-05:00

Anyone who has been reading my blog, Facebook posts, or Twitter posts over the past several months must realize by now that I have a fascination with the wines from South West France. Maybe that seems like a peculiar fixation, since Tannat, Courbu, and Manseng aren’t exactly the most trendy wines. Well, it all began back in September when I attended a tasting of twelve South West France wines, presented by Master Sommelier Fred Dexheimer and Master Sommelier Scott Carney. Aside from the mysterious, bold, aromatic wines that took over the room where we tasted, what really drew my attention to the wines was the way they were presented to us - it was the first time I heard Master Sommelier Dexheimer present wines, and the second time I heard Master Sommelier Carney present wines. And their enthusiasm and passion for the wines was so contagious I couldn’t help but perceive the wines enthusiastically. But they also presented the wines and went through the tasting very technically, and that approach - enthusiasm but a profound respect for the wine region, the producers, the grapes, etc., is exactly what sparked my interest in the wines from that region.

Tasting wines of South West France

When I go to a tasting, whether it’s at a tasting room, a restaurant, or a more formal setting, I attend because I want to learn and to experience something different. I want to be able to take that knowledge with me, and I want to apply it to more research and tastings, and I want to impart it to my readers. If someone bothers to read my blog posts, the least I can do is give them something fun and informative to read. But I also believe that people who grow grapes and produce wine are giving wine drinkers their very best effort - and to take a frivolous approach to tasting their wines would be doing them an injustice.

I love going to wineries and tasting new releases - but I get pretty frustrated when a person pouring and presenting the wines in a tasting room isn’t familiar with the wines at that winery. I’ve gone into some tasting rooms and spent hours discussing the wines with the person pouring, and learned a great deal about what that particular winery is doing in terms of growing, harvesting, producing, etc., and I feel very satisfied when I leave a winery with a stack of tasting notes and information - and I look forward to telling my readers all about it. And then I’ve been to some tasting rooms where the person pouring couldn’t even answer my questions about whether the wine spent any time in oak, or what percentage of each grape type was in the wine. I’m sorry, but to me, that’s just not acceptable. The people growing, harvesting, and making the wine deserve a lot better, and the people attending the tasting deserve better.

And then a few months back I attended a tasting at a restaurant, where five wines by a particular winery were being shown. The presentation of the wines was “bare bones” at best, but it was rather an expensive tasting to attend, and I was going to make the best of it. So when I got to speak privately with one of the presenters, and told him that I was going to be writing a blog post about the wines presented that night, I asked him some questions, and got no answers. So I finally asked him, “Is there anything about the winery that you’d like me to know?” His response: “It’s a very pretty winery.” It actually made me feel foolish for even asking him the question. I’m sure it’s a lovely winery, but that’s not the answer I was looking for. I was hoping for something informative. So all my blog readers got to hear about from that tasting were my own notes on color, aroma, flavor, structure, but nothing about the winery, nothing about the vineyards, the barrels, etc.

Tastings and presentations are important - sometimes that’s our only chance of sampling certain wines. And presentations where the room is extremely warm, or the wines are the wrong temperature, or the presenter has no knowledge of the product, make the wines show poorly. And I’m pretty sure the winemakers deserve for their wines to show better than that, after all the effort they put into it.

I know there are a lot of people who take tasting and writing very seriously. I like it to be fun and I like it to be informative. I’ve been told that sometimes my tasting notes look kind of long and detailed, but for me, that’s the whole point. A wine with complexity and nice structure, and expressiveness of its terroir, is what makes me feel inspired to discuss the wine, and tell others about it, and encourage them to try it as well. Wine can be such a wonderful way for people to connect.

I’ve also read some articles and posts by people who write about wine. I love hearing about unique experiences, exciting wines to try, and interesting observations. I’m not saying it should always sound like it came from a textbook, but fun and informative is what I like in a wine article. And then there are those trendy words like “yummy” and “tasty” that seem to show up more and more often in articles about wine. I could be wrong, but it seems to me that “yummy” is a word that probably should not be used to describe wine - I feel like it’s dumbing down what could have been a well thought out discussion of a wine. And recently I read an article about rather an important Bordeaux, which undoubtedly took a great deal of effort and years of learning to produce such a wine - and the writer of the article called it “yummy.” Again, I could be wrong, but don’t the people putting their very best efforts every day into that wine deserve a lot better than to have their masterpiece called “yummy”? It’s one thing if a few of us are having a fun discussion about foods and wines and words like that are used. But when we’re depending on an expert to write a review of a special wine, in my opinion, words like “yummy” and “tasty” just won’t do.

I do realize it would be unrealistic to expect everyone to present wines the way Master Sommelier Dexheimer and Master Sommelier Carney do - they’re among the very best at what they do; their enthusiasm and passion for wine is unparalleled, and their knowledge is priceless. After attending their presentation, visiting South West France someday has become a dream for me, and since I heard them speak about those wines, I’ve been researching and tasting as many South West France wines as possible. Wines from Cahors and Madiran have found a special place in my tasting notes, and I’m currently trying to hunt down some wines from Irouleguy, which I found to be the most mysterious at the tasting. And when I attend a well-presented tasting, I have even more respect for those whose efforts make wonderful wines possible and available to us.

Preparing to take notes on some important wines from Bordeaux

Funky Jura Wines

2012-02-03T10:45:00.000-05:00

To say that the wines of Jura tend to be “funky” is almost an understatement - I had heard mixed opinions about Jura wines but finally got to try a white and then a red - and they’re not bad at all. They’re just different.

Jura is that fairly cool climate wine producing region between Burgundy and Switzerland. And the wines I tried are both from Arbois, by Tissot.

The white was the 2008 Tissot Arbois Selection blend of 70% Chardonnay and 30% Savagnin. The wine is almost golden in color and slightly cloudy, with characteristics of nut, blossom, and an almost strange spiciness, plenty of acidity, and what felt like an oxidized characteristic (which I later leaned is what’s expected of a wine like this). For my palate, a wine like that takes some getting used to, but it was an interesting experience. I think this funky wine would pair best with a funky cheese.

2008 Tissot Arbois Selection Chardonnay/Savagnin

The red seemed to agree with my palate more than the white did - it was the 2010 Tissot Arbois Vieilles Vignes Poulsard. The wine is youthful and fairly light, bright red in color, and also fairly light in body, with characteristics of tart red fruit, cherry, apple skin, a bit of herb, and an earthiness reflecting its limestone and clay soil, an almost white mineral characteristic. There is lots of bright acidity with youthful tannins and a respectable finish, and leaves the palate feeling clean. The wine seems very food friendly and it’s likable.

2010 TIssot Arbois Vieilles Vignes Poulsard

Those Jura wines are definitely unique and I’d be happy to try more of them.

Winter Wines?

2012-01-30T10:32:00.000-05:00

It’s almost February. By this time last year, we’d had an uncharacteristic amount of snow and temperatures had been dipping into single digits - on Long Island, we don’t usually expect that. But this winter, it hasn’t been nearly as cold and so far we’ve had only one snowfall. So, while last winter it was all about heavy reds to keep me warm, this winter it’s been more about consuming lighter and medium bodied reds, dry rose, and some whites. And the stash of heavy reds continues to grow.

I’m staring at my wine racks and seeing lots of big reds just sitting there - some Zinfandel, Durif, some Syrah blends, Tannat, big reds from Piemonte, and more Cabernet Sauvignon than I realized I had, and of course my bottle of Roc de Cambes that I’m looking for an excuse to open. In light of last winter’s weather, a few months ago I honestly believed this would be another winter of big reds with dark fruit, bold spice, and intense characteristics and full, luscious texture. I had tapped Stag’s Leap Petite Sirah, Chateau Gloria, Franciscan Magnificat, Villa Rosa Barolo, Freemark Abbey Cabernet, Mollydooker Maitre D’, and so many other big reds for this winter. Yes I’ve had a few big reds over the past couple of months, but not as many as anticipated. Pinot Noir, American Merlot, and the like, have dominated my palate lately.

I’m certainly not complaining - I’d rather have it this way. But it looks like I’ll have to incorporate some bigger dishes and pairings into my cooking for the remainder of the winter and into the spring, because the likes of Sancerre and Chablis will be calling to me before long!

Some Good Pairings and Good Finds

2012-01-27T11:25:00.000-05:00

Ah, Gewurztraminer - the quirky yet image-conscious wine with so many facets - and my first real love among wines. When asked what drew me to Gewurztraminer, I usually answer that the enticing, exotic aromas leaping from the glass made it impossible for me to resist, and I was hooked. True, that’s how it went, but there’s something more to my relationship with Gewurztraminer. Gewurztraminer’s personality is often similar to mine, and so I readily identify with this wine. Covering some of the acidity with complexity and fun characteristics while infinitely quirky and slightly off-the-beaten-path, Gewurztraminer and I share a similar smile, a similar personality, a similar style, and a similar approach. For these reasons, Gewurztraminer introduced me to the wonderful world of wine with ease, we became fast friends, and never looked back.

So when I spotted what looked like an interesting bottle of Gewurztraminer while wine shopping a few weeks ago, of course I had to try it, and I decided to pair it with a dish that had been sitting patiently in my imagination bank for some time.

The wine was the 2010 Lucien Albrecht Reserve Gewurztraminer from Alsace, and the dish was sort of a goat cheese “sack,” a puff pastry filled with a mixture of crumbled goat cheese, finely chopped sauteed portobello mushroom, lemon zest, ground black pepper, and fresh thyme and chives, tied closed with a fresh thyme sprig, brushed with melted butter, and baked until golden brown. I’m happy to report the dish was a success and the pairing was perfect. The wine is light yellow in color with a thin rim, and characteristics of candied orange, peach, apricot (almost like a peach pie actually), pineapple, tropical fruit, and of course lychee, one of Gewurztraminer’s signature fruit characteristics, as well as some spice including fresh ginger. The wine tastes a bit sweet but has nice underlying acidity that comes through once the wine has sat on the palate for a moment, reflecting the pineapple characteristic. The acidity leaves the palate feeling very clean, and the finish reflects the fruit and spice, lasting some time. I had been trying to decide what to pair with that new dish idea, considering unoaked or lightly oaked Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc from Loire, or even a lighter Pinot Noir, but after deciding on the Gewurztraminer, I think the dish would serve as a perfect appetizer, and the Gewurztraminer would serve as a perfect accompaniment and aperitif.

2010 Lucien Albrecht Reserve Gewurztraminer (Alsace) with Goat Cheese “Sack"

The next day it snowed, and I was definitely in the mood for a big red. Enter the 2009 Skinner Mourvedre from El Dorado, California, paired with a filet mignon drizzled with white truffle oil and accompanied by sauteed portobellos. I had been meaning to grab a bottle of this wine and when I got to the wine shop, it was the last bottle left, so I’m glad I made it there in time to get that last bottle. Usually I think of Mourvedre as a good “team player” to work with Grenache and Syrah in some great Rhone style blends, but it’s great to experience this grape type on its own. The wine is a deep red with a fairly youthful pinkish red rim, and very viscous, indicating relatively high alcohol at 14.8%. Characteristics include lots of fruit, some red but mostly dark, stewed/macerated fruit, baking spices (particularly nutmeg), dark chocolate and some vanilla, oak, lots of smoke, and roasted meat notes. The wine has enough acidity and big youthful tannins, a very smooth feel and a very long finish reminiscent of the smoke and dark fruit. The pairing was perfect, especially on a winter night. I really enjoyed this wine and I’d go for it again in a heartbeat.

2009 Skinner Mourvedre (El Dorado, CA) with Filet Mignon, White Truffle Oil, and Portobello Mushroom

My mid-week pick was the 2009 Chapelle St. Arnoux Vacqueyras, a blend of 85% Grenache and 15% Syrah (lately I’m really into Southern Rhone style wines). It wasn’t paired; it was for sipping. The wine is a deep red with a brighter rim and viscous, with characteristics of red fruit, cinnamon, earth, and roasted meat, with nice acidity and a smooth clean feel, and a respectable finish. At just under $20, this wine is a great buy - it really delivers and would pair excellently with most meat dishes.

2009 Chapelle St. Arnoux Vacqueyras

Some More Shaw Wines - Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon

2012-01-23T10:57:00.000-05:00

Last week at Empire State Cellars I got to taste four more Shaw Vineyard Finger Lakes wines. There’s something I like very much about tasting Shaw wines that’s different from most wines I try at wineries or bottles I’ve been sent. When I visit a tasting room or receive a sample, what I hear so often is something like, “It’s really young right now. Imagine what it will be like when it reaches its potential in a few years.” Yes, it’s normal to have to predict what a wine’s potential is. But that’s not the case with the Shaw wines I’ve tasted. They’ve already got some age and they’re already showing what they were intended to be. And they’re really good representatives of their grape types and they’re very expressive.

First was the 2005 Chardonnay - it’s got some light citrus characteristics but the orchard fruits are much more prominent, both on the nose and on the palate, and just a hint of baking spice. The effects of the oak contact are lovely - the wine still has a clean feel while showing depth and texture, with that slightly buttery characteristic we’d expect from a Chardonnay that’s had oak contact, but it’s not at all heavy and doesn’t have that excessive caramel characteristic that happens if there’s too much oak. In short, the aromas and flavors of clean fruit and baked fruit work very nicely together, and the texture and feel of the wine is very appealing.

Next was the 2005 Merlot, with deep red color and characteristics of ripe but clean berry and smooth baking spices, good balance and a nice feel, and a respectable finish. The wine seems very solid and food friendly.

And then came the 2006 Cabernet Franc. I’ve mentioned several times in my blog that I’ve never been a fan of East Coast Cabernet Franc even after trying so many over the past several years. Why? Well, I don’t care much for excessive green bell pepper characteristics. And too often, East Coast Cabernet Franc has that characteristic. So I’m always a bit skeptical whenever I’m about to try a Cabernet Franc. But then I tried the Shaw Cabernet Franc - and I thought, Hallelujah, a Cabernet Franc I can enjoy! Lots of fruit characteristics, somewhat bright, with very smooth baking spices, vanilla, a bit of black pepper, and an almost cool earthiness. Where was the green bell pepper aroma and flavor? It wasn’t there. Wow, I thought, as I let it settle on my palate so I could further appreciate the wine’s maturity. There’s a surprise - no green pepper, no vegetal characteristics - just honest fruit and a really good representation of what I’ve been looking for in an East Coast Cabernet Franc for the past several years. This would be the very first time that I’d come away from a tasting and decide that the Cabernet Franc was my favorite wine of the evening.

The final wine was the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, another very solid red with fruit, spice, and earth characteristics, nicely balanced, and reminiscent of the Old World style that allows the wine to express its soil and place of origin.

Now that I’ve tasted six Shaw wines, what’s apparent to me is the attention to detail in these wines, proper aging, and as I mentioned in my review of the 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, the Shaw wines really are expressive of their “terroir.”

2005 Chardonnay

Planted: 1980 on Keuka Lake

4-6 months in French oak

200 cases produced

2005 Merlot

Planted: May 2000 on Seneca Lake

2-3 tons per acre yield

36 months in French oak

200 cases produced

2006 Cabernet Franc

Planted: 2001 on Seneca Lake

2-3 tons per acre yield

36 months in French oak

2000 cases produced

2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

Planted: Keuka and Seneca Lake

2-3 tons per acre yield

36 months in French oak

200 cases produced

http://shawvineyard.com/Default.aspx

Bordeaux Tasting at Lake Side Emotions Wine Boutique

2012-01-20T10:25:00.002-05:00

If there’s anything that will teach a wine drinker and keep a person’s palate honest, it’s a blind tasting. So many people have opinions based on something they’ve never actually experienced. While that can be irritating to their listeners, they’re actually doing themselves the greatest disservice. Opinions that are backed by nothing tend to lead to close-mindedness, limiting a person’s ability to learn, as well as enjoy, new experiences.

Last year, just after starting this blog, I wrote a post to make a case for Merlot. After Sideways, Merlot saw a decline in sales, all because it became trendy to knock Merlot in favor of other grape types, particularly Pinot Noir. Yes, I’ve grown to love many Pinots from all around the world. But I’ve been willing to stand by my very strong and favorable opinion of Merlot. And even though I didn’t know it at the time, I was getting an opportunity to prove it - Merlot-based wines can be extraordinary.

No, that’s not why I challenged myself to the Bordeaux tasting at Lake Side Emotions Wine Boutique in Stony Brook - I did the blind tasting of Bordeaux to see just how well I did at taking tasting notes, and I did it to enjoy some spectacular wines. I also did it to better my knowledge and give my opinions some more credibility. But in the process, I learned that my palate is still honest - to me and subsequently to my readers. And if I thought I enjoyed Merlot before the tasting, well, apparently I LOVE a good Merlot!

So the tasting began, and I didn’t know which wines were being poured. All I knew was that six of the seven were from one year, and one was from a different year, and of course I knew they were all from Bordeaux. I will not tell you the order of the wines, but I will tell you that three of them were Petrus, Cheval Blanc, and Mouton Rothschild, all from the 2004 vintage. The other four were wines by Mitjavile - the Tertre Roteboeuf, Roc de Cambes, and Domaine de Cambes all from 2004, and the Domaine de L’Aurage from 2009.

My notes on the wines were written as I tasted, so at the time I wrote them, I didn’t know which wines they were. My notes reflect what colors, aromas, flavors, and textures I perceived, and also how I connected with each wine, and why.

Petrus (Pomerol)

Color - darkish color with not a large rim, the rim leans brickish. Medium viscosity.

Aromas - rich, slightly stewed/macerated red and dark fruit/berry, mostly dark fruit, violet, smooth spice, a bit of ash, smells more “purple” than the others, some smoke, wood and dark fruit are more apparent than earthiness.

Flavors - raspberry, red fruit but more dark fruit, confirming the aromas, smooth spices, vanilla/oak, but mostly the big dark fruit characteristics.

Structure - well balanced with plenty of acidity but big, smooth tannins, making it have a luxurious texture.

Finish - very long, reflecting dark fruit and smoke.

Connection - I love this wine. It feels so smooth and rich and appealing, and very elegant. I’d like to pair it with bigger dishes or sip it on its own.

Cheval Blanc (Saint-Emilion)

Color - deep red, darker core, rim leans a bit toward brick in a relatively clear rim. Medium viscosity.

Aromas - red fruit, raspberry and cherry, a bit of plum flesh, herb, violet, a hint of smooth spice and cinnamon, smooth chocolate, and a slightly wild characteristic with a bit of that good kind of “funk.”

Flavors - cool red fruit, some raspberry but leaning toward cherry, lots of herb, wood, cinnamon again.

Structure - lovely balance, plenty of nice acidity, very present tannins leave the palate feeling very dry.

Finish - very long, clean finish.

Connection - tasted “cooler” than I had expected after digesting the aromas, based upon flavors and texture I think it would be very food friendly, with most meats and perhaps even with some poultry. My first reaction, which I promptly wrote down, was “wow.”

Mouton Rothschild (Pauillac)

Color - a bit dark red, dark core, rim is becoming brickish. Medium to possibly medium plus viscosity.

Aromas - (at this point, I wasn’t feeling much of a connection to the wine) raspberry, cassis, a bit of plum, wild fruit, plenty of pepper, spice, more earth than oak.

Flavor - (I preferred the flavor over the aroma and began to connect better with the wine at this point) a lot more fruit on the palate than on the nose, herb, plenty of spice, some wood. Seems to start off cool and end with a warmer feeling.

Structure - food friendly acidity, very dry follow-up from tannins, feels a bit warm heading toward finish.

Finish - very long and spicy.

Connection - I was not connecting well with this wine based on aromas, but appreciated it a lot more after tasting. I felt it was a good “food wine.”

Mitjavile Tertre Roteboeuf (Saint-Emilion)

Color - dark, deep red, thin rim, transitioning to brickish. Medium to perhaps medium plus viscosity.

Aromas - cherry, raspberry, perhaps some cassis, a hint of wild fruit and some underlying brightness in the fruit characteristics, spice, a hint of smoke, dried flowers, a bit of roasted meat, and a deep wood fragrance, with a hint of forest.

Flavors - confirmed the nose except a bit more dark fruit than red, smoke, smooth herb (but not any “green” characteristic), some very “purple” characteristics, a bit of violet, smooth spices, some chocolate, more oak than earth but a nice combination of flavors.

Structure - well balanced, smooth, clean, acidity comes through and tannins quickly follow.

Finish - very long and luscious, flavors seem to really continue.

Connection - full and satisfying wine that I liked a lot, very appealing.

Mitjavile Roc de Cambes (Cotes de Bourg)

Color - red with a big core, a big rim making a transition to brickish. Medium viscosity.

Aromas - (at this point, I wrote “wow” and “wonderful” as soon as I took a breath from the glass) lots of red fruit but some dark as well, leaning toward fresh red fruit, cinnamon spice, light fresh herbs, smoke, tobacco, slight bit of chocolate, wood, and a hint of leather.

Flavors- (again I wrote how much I enjoyed this wine at the first sip) red fruit with a bit of dark fruit, confirming the nose, smooth baking spices, smoke, slight indication of roasted meat, and some “pencil” characteristics (I really did write “pencil,” presumably the combination of the particular wood and mineral characteristics gave that impression).

Structure - love the balance, clean from nice acidity, but dries perfectly with very present tannins.

Finish - long finish with floral, fruit, and spice characteristics, a bit of smokiness, and a very clean finish.

Connection - clearly I was connecting really well with this wine, finding lots of bold as well as subtle characteristics, I’d love it with food, particularly meat dishes, as well as for sipping on its own. Really enjoyable.

Mitjavile Domaine de Cambes (Saint-Emilion)

Color - red, rim leaning brickish a bit. Medium viscosity, perhaps slightly higher.

Aromas - red fruit, some cherry, lots of herb, and a hint of “green” characteristic, a bit of wild fruit, spice, chocolate, and oak, with just a hint of tar.

Flavors - (I didn’t immediately connect with this wine; it took me about three sips to like it, at which time it seemed a lot more favorable) big on the palate, tastes confirmed nose, red fruit with lots of herb, some smoke and spices.

Structure - acidic but tannins make it dry very quickly, and becomes very dry.

Finish - very long finish with lots of spiciness, and ends very cleanly.

Connection - took a while to connect with this wine, but once I found that connection, I began to like it quite a lot. Seems quite food friendly.

Mitjavile Domaine de L’Aurage (Cotes de Castillon)

Color - deep and a bit on the purple side, with a youthful pink rim. Medium viscosity with some staining in the glass.

Aromas - lots of raspberry, mostly ripe berry with a bit of cassis and dark berry, some forest characteristics, some wild fruit, chocolate, smooth baking spices, some herb, plenty of smoke, oak, and cool stone/mineral, not at all warm on the nose.

Flavors - confirm nose, lots of raspberry, herb, chocolate, baking spice, and stony characteristic, perhaps some graphite.

Structure - food friendly acidity, plenty of youthful tannin, modest alcohol.

Finish - very long finish, reflecting berry and earth/stone, very clean after finish.

Connection - I liked the wine but it didn’t leave a tremendous impression, the flavors were big and I thought the texture would be fuller after tasting it, but the texture wasn’t particularly full. I think it would be food friendly.

You’re probably wondering at this point, what was the outcome? Well, the wines with large percentages of Merlot took the top spots, according to my palate. Roc de Cambes was the wine I best connected with, which is mostly Merlot with some Cabernet Sauvignon and Malbec blended in. The other wine to finish near the top? Petrus - which as we know, is nearly all Merlot with a bit of Cabernet Franc. The others I very much enjoyed were the Cheval Blanc, Tertre Roteboeuf, and Domaine de Cambes.

What was it I liked so much about Roc de Cambes? I love the purity, the balance, and what felt like a perfect blend of fruit, earth, and wood, and its overall expressiveness. And what did I like so much about Petrus? It’s definitely one of the most solid wines I’ve tasted, beautiful and elegant and complex with a very clear identity of its own, and a commanding presence.

Ultimately, I learned a great deal from the roughly two hours I spent with the seven wines - a wine doesn’t have to be thousands of dollars to be wonderful, as in the case of Roc de Cambes. But that doesn’t mean that a thousand dollars or so for a bottle of Petrus isn’t worth it - because Petrus is unlike anything I’ve tasted before - and both Petrus and Roc de Cambes absolutely blew me away. I also learned that what matters a great deal is that each wine drinker take the time to find what’s right for his/her palate. And while Merlot may be a bit out of style thanks to Sideways, a wine drinker has nothing to be ashamed of by having an affinity for good Merlot - in fact, the wine drinker should be proud - Roc de Cambes and Petrus are excellent examples of what a great Merlot should be. Yes, there are some sub-par Merlots, but there are sub-par representatives from every grape type. It’s important to be open-minded and willing to make the effort to find your match among grape types and wine producing regions and styles. The wine drinker needs to be able to connect with the wine and be affected by it. Wine appreciation is more than tasting notes; it’s also about the sensation and connection with the wine and the overall experience. And for me, the best connections were with Roc de Cambes and Petrus. I was hoping that Petrus would be everything I’ve read, and in fact it was everything I read and so much more, and I’m so happy I had the opportunity to try it. And Roc de Cambes - well let’s just say I’m very lucky that I feel such a strong connection to it. For my last birthday, Christophe at Lake Side Emotions picked that very bottle and sold it to my Dad as a birthday gift for me. So I have a bottle waiting for me in my wine rack. How lucky am I? I’d say I’m very lucky.

Some More French Whites

2012-01-17T16:12:00.001-05:00

I tasted a couple of interesting French whites last week. Both were excellent quality and under $20 and very food-friendly.

The first was the 2010 Domaine du Salvard Cheverny from Loire, a blend of mostly Sauvignon Blanc and a bit of Chardonnay. The wine is straw colored and reflective and looks beautiful in the glass, and has characteristics of bright citrus, smooth orchard fruit, melon, some tropical fruit, evergreen, and a cool minerality. As I had expected, there was bright acidity and a clean, fresh feel, and the wine was nicely rounded out by the Chardonnay, showing just a bit more depth, a little more weight, and some texture after sitting a moment on the palate. The finish is long and reflects both the Sauvignon Blanc and the Chardonnay. I’ve been hoping to try this wine for some time, and it was even better than I had expected - in fact, it’s one of the most pleasing whites I’ve had in a while.

2010 Domaine du Salvard Cheverny

The other white was the 2008 Ogier Caves des Papes Cotes du Rhone Heritages Blanc from Southern Rhone. It’s a blend of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Bourboulenc, Roussanne, and Viognier, and once in the glass, it immediately behaves just as I had anticipated - a bit wild and energetic, and bursting with countless aromas. It’s a pale yellow/gold with a clear rim, and shows characteristics of a bit of citrus (particularly tangerine), but mostly cooked orchard fruits such as pear, apple, and some peach, and notes of ripe pineapple come rushing forward, followed by smooth spice and butterscotch, making it seem just a bit rich. It’s got nice acidity and just a bit of a buttery feel, but it has a long finish that ends cleanly. I also enjoyed this wine very much.

2008 Ogier Caves des Papes Cotes du Rhone Heritages Blanc

Champagne Taste Is A Year Old Already!

2012-01-13T10:57:00.001-05:00

It’s hard to say how it all started...I wish I could say it started when I was 11 years old and made my own red wine for my 6th grade project for the annual science fair at Sts. Philip and James School - crushing grocery store grapes in a sauce pot with a potato masher, pressing them with wooden paddles and a cheese cloth, and bringing the bottle of wine to the science fair, to win first prize one winter night. But I didn’t start actually drinking wine until some years later when a glass of Gewurztraminer beckoned me to have a taste, and I was spellbound. Not long after that experience with the Pierre Sparr Alsace Gewurztraminer, a red called to me - Celler Can Blau, from Montsant, with its dark fruit characteristics laced with notes of cool slate. I was enchanted - and I was hooked.

Pierre Sparr Alsace Gewurztraminer

Celler Can Blau Montsant

Then began the constant research and desire to learn more about wine, about different grapes, regions, producers, history; and then I wanted to learn to pair them to my cooking. I just couldn’t stop learning.

At one point, a few years ago, I was discussing a particular Australian Cabernet online and became engrossed in a wine conversation with someone who would become a friend. This friend finally asked me why I didn’t write my tasting notes and experiences for others to read, but I didn’t think much about that. After all, I thought, who would want to read my opinions on wines?

And then when this friend suddenly left my life, I realized I missed discussing my wine experiences with someone, so I began posting photos of labels and tasting notes on Facebook for my family and friends to read, and I wondered if anyone was actually interested. And that’s when it occurred to me, why not start a blog about my wine experiences?

This weekend marks one whole year since I started the Champagne Taste Wine Blog.

Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay - Loire

I can hardly believe it’s already been a year. Sometimes I still wonder who is actually reading about my wine experiences, but my blog statistics indicate I’ve got readers all over the world. I’m so happy I’ve been able to connect with fellow wine lovers everywhere - after all, why confine my findings, notes, and experiences to myself and to so few people? I’ve also met a lot of fascinating people via my blog, especially after joining Twitter and connecting with people who have similar interests to mine.

This journey that began with the start of the blog has encouraged my passion for wine, and it even inspired me to take the level 1 exam through the Court of Master Sommeliers. So, after lots of research and the consumption of countless bottles within the past year, I’ve learned quite a bit and I’ve had opportunities to share and connect with others, and as the Champagne Taste Wine Blog enters its second year, I look forward to many new experiences with wine and sharing them with others.

Pinot Noir - Finger Lakes

Out of the Ordinary

2012-01-09T16:03:00.002-05:00

Let’s just say I have a really hard time for settling for “ordinary” - things that are mainstream just don’t appeal as much to me as things that are less-than-common do, especially in terms of wine. So this past year, I started making an effort to hunt down some off-the-beaten-path wines, to keep it as exciting as it’s always been, and to better educate my palate. And one of my New Year’s resolutions is to continue to seek out these unique wines and keep on learning - but it’s also important to me to introduce these finds to others in the hopes of helping them find wines that are especially interesting to them and have that “wow” factor that I’m always searching for.

Domaine Le Serp - Madiran, South West France

Some exciting finds for me this year include finally tasting a few wines from the Finger Lakes, particularly from Shaw Vineyard, which were very impressive. Other finds have come from around the US - I tried some wines from Virginia this year, including some good surprises and some disappointments as well. But the majority of my exciting new discoveries came from Italy and France, and a few more from other regions. And sampling lots of different Champagnes has proven to be fascinating as well.

Shaw Vineyard Pinot Noir - Finger Lakes, New York

Probably the region I’ve been giving the most attention to within the past few months is South West France, and I’ve realized just how much I enjoy Tannat, as well as discovering my preference for earthy French Malbec over those from Argentina - and I’m sure it’s no secret to my readers and Twitter friends that I was absolutely blown away by late harvest Petit Manseng. The Petit Manseng I had the privilege of trying at my first Guild of Sommeliers tasting event this past year, and it’s the only wine that I actually “drank” at any tasting this year. Yes, it’s that amazing. And for a Sauternes lover such as myself, it’s a great find at a fraction of the cost of a Sauternes. I’ve tried so many unique wines from South West France this year and I can’t wait to find more of them - they possess something so different and so mysterious, and I’m so drawn to them.

Celliers Contemporains Cinsault Rose - Languedoc-Roussillon

Other wines from France that were unique and left a lasting impression on me include a dry rose Cinsault from Languedoc-Roussillon that’s probably my current “go-to” dry rose for the warmer months, a Mondeuse from Savoie that’s so elegant and light and lovely, and a funky blend of Chardonnay and Savagnin from Arbois that pretty much left me smiling but scratching my head.

Bugey Mataret Mondeuse - Savoie

Tissot Selection Blanc - Arbois, Jura

As for Champagnes, I tried a lot of them this year, but the two that left the most lasting impressions (and were radically different from each other) were the Philipponnat Brut Royale Reserve, a big, “viney” Champagne, and the Demi-Sec by Laurent Perrier, that has just the right amount of natural sweetness laced into its clean characteristics.

Philipponnat Brut Royale Reserve - Champagne

Demi-Sec Laurent Perrier - Champagne

It’s also no secret that I spent quite a bit of time trying to locate a good German Sekt, but this year, my parents brought me a bottle that they found while on vacation, and the Deinhard Lila Riesling Sekt was just what I had been looking for.

Deinhard Lila Riesling Sekt

A dessert wine that I had never tried but tasted a few months ago is the “Alcyone” from Uruguay, the first wine from Uruguay that I’ve ever had - what makes that wine interesting is that it’s a late harvest and so it tasted nothing like any Tannat I’ve had before. It’s fantastic and worth trying.

Vinedo de los Vientos “Alcyone” Late Harvest Tannat - Uruguay

And I can’t forget an Austrian Roter Veltliner that’s lovely, fruity, clean, and while it may be from the same area as Gruner Veltliner, the wine was very different from Gruner and very much has its own identity, and I could not have predicted how much I’d enjoy it.

Leth Roter Veltliner

Italian wines are special to me as they pair so well with the style and flavors of my cooking at home, and after spending plenty of time focusing on whites like Pinot Grigio and Cortese di Gavi, and reds like Barolo, Barbaresco, Chianti, Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, and Sicilian reds like Nero d’Avola and Nerello Mascalese, my attention turned toward Dolcetto d’Alba and some fascinating whites from Northern Italy. I’ve decided that Dolcetto is one of the best choices for pairing with traditional Italian cuisine, and after trying both aged and young Dolcetto, I like it very much. As far as the unique whites go, Erbaluce di Caluso from Piemonte and Petite Arvine from Valle d’Aoste were the wines we had on Christmas Eve with the Feast of the Seven Fishes. Food-friendly, crisp, and complex, these Italian whites were a revelation and I’m so happy to have tried them.

Pio Cesare Dolcetto d’Alba - Piemonte

Grosjean Petite Arvine - Valle d’Aoste and Ferrando La Torrazza Erbaluce di Caluso - Piemonte

And today, I looked in my wine racks and noticed that aside from a bottle of the Uruguayan late harvest Tannat and a few more bottles of unique French red wines, I couldn’t find any more “oddballs,” so it’s time for me to get back to the wine shop. And perhaps one of my best discoveries in the past year is the newest wine shop in town - Lake Side Emotions Wine Boutique. People ask me where I manage to find so many wonderful and unique bottles, and my answer is usually Lake Side Emotions. I’m so pleased to have a local place to go, to find wines that are from so many unusual regions and made of unusual grapes - not to mention how much fun I have every time I go into that wine shop.

I’m looking forward to another year of wine discoveries and I’m so happy to be able to share them with family, friends, and readers.

“Conjure"

2012-01-06T13:19:00.001-05:00

Over Christmas I received a sample of a wine with logo/availability pending (which explains why there is no label on the bottle in the photo), and now that the holidays are over, I finally had a chance to taste it. And I’m happy to report that the wine confirmed my excitement - it’s as impressive as I had hoped it would be.

“Conjure” 2009 Pinot Noir

Please remember that the sample I received is the 2009, which will not be released. The 2010 should be released later in 2012. But after tasting the 2009, I have very high hopes for the 2010. And now for my tasting notes.

The wine is called “Conjure” - it’s 100% Pinot Noir (Sonoma/Carneros fruit) and very much American style Pinot. As suggested, I decanted the wine about an hour and a half before taking the first sip, and already the aromas were bursting from the decanter as it received the wine from this bottle without a label. As tempted as I was to pour even a small glass of the Pinot on account of the beckoning aromas, I resisted the urge and waited until I felt the time was right.

In the glass, the Pinot is a deep red with a dark core and a bright red rim. Characteristics include ripe fruit with some cherry but a lot more emphasis on raspberry, with smooth baking spices and dark chocolate, a bit of smoke, leather, and even a hint of purple blossoms. More full and luscious than most Pinots I’ve tasted, the wine is big and textured, with plenty of acidity balanced nicely with fairly smooth but very present tannins, and a long finish mostly reflecting the chocolate. As I watched it change over the course of a few hours, the wine softened even more. Elegant and just a bit sassy, it’s a great wine which I chose to sip without any food, but would like to try it with duck, or a lean steak or lamb. And while I sipped, it was almost like sharing a secret with this Pinot as I swirled it around the Burgundy glass - a secret only until the 2010 is released later this year.

“Conjure”

100% Pinot Noir

70% Burgundy clone 667 and the remainder Burgundy clone 115

75% New French oak (Francois Ferrer cooperage) 25% once used or neutral

All Sonoma/Carneros fruit

Harvest Date 10/2/2009

Bottle date 4/19/2011

Vines planted in 2001

Winemaker: Kenneth Juhasz

New Year’s Eve

2012-01-02T13:17:00.000-05:00

For New Year’s Eve, we decided on lamb for dinner, with sweet potatoes, garlic bread, and sauteed portobellos. The wine with dinner was the 2008 Chasseur Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir, a very elegant wine with a deep red color and relatively clear water rim. The characteristics include some sweet cherry and other fruit, mostly red, with soft spice and herbs, and some earthiness, with fairly bright acidity and firm tannins, and a long finish. The wine is youthful and somewhat lively but still very elegant. The pairing was perfect and the wine is absolutely delicious and so enjoyable.

2008 Chasseur Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir

And for midnight, we opened the Champagne Philipponnat Brut Royale Reserve, a bottle I’ve been wanting to try for quite some time. It’s a rich golden color and it was fairly obvious that there’s plenty of Pinot Noir in that Champagne - the color, the big rich characteristics of vine and nut and a bit of baking spice, and a bigger texture with lots of creaminess and a fuller feel. I really loved this Champagne and I think it will become one of my favorites.

Champagne Philipponnat Brut Royale Reserve

Not Just Wine...

2011-12-30T15:18:00.000-05:00

It’s wine that I always write about, because it’s wine that most inspires me. But I do enjoy vodka, tequila, rum, and, most recently, gin. And now I tried something new recently thanks to a thoughtful gift - Junior Johnson Midnight Moon Apple Pie Moonshine. And I loved it!

I wasn’t sure how smooth it would be or how moonshine could taste like apple pie but it’s a lot smoother than I had expected, and it really does smell and taste like a properly spiced fresh apple pie.

Trying new things is important to me but usually something “new” means a less-than-common grape type from a lesser known wine region - Mondeuse from Savoie, Petite Arvine from Vallee d’Aoste, Petit Manseng from South West France, or Nerello Cappuccio from Sicily - but the apple pie moonshine is a new favorite for sure.

Christmas Wines - Part 2

2011-12-27T11:20:00.000-05:00

Christmas Eve dinner in our house is centered around the traditional Feast of the Seven Fishes, so of course the wines are white, to pair with frutti di mare, lobster, shrimp, and assorted fried fish.

The first wine of the evening was the 2010 Grosjean Freres Petite Arvine (Vallee d’Aoste) - I know it sounds French but it’s actually Italian - and it’s lovely. I had never tried a Petite Arvine before so I didn’t know what to expect. The wine is a light golden color with characteristics of soft citrus and even softer orchard fruit notes, particularly peach, very soft spice, mineral, and a hint of yeastiness, with clean acidity but a slightly creamy feel and a long finish. The wine is fascinating and fortunately very food friendly so it paired perfectly with the fish.

2010 Grosjean Freres Petite Arvine and 2009 Ferrando Erbaluce di Caluso La Torrazza

The next white, also Italian in keeping with the dinner theme, was the 2009 Ferrando Erbaluce di Caluso La Torrazza (Piemonte). Another exciting new wine for me, it’s perhaps even more golden in color than the Petite Arvine, with somewhat rich characteristics of exotic fruit, white flowers, bitter nut, and a hint of fennel/anise with white stoniness and a crisp, clean texture and slightly bitter finish. This wine was also an excellent pairing with the fish.

Overall, I was very happy with the white Italian selections for Christmas Eve dinner - both had just enough weight to them while staying crisp and clean and cutting through the fried fish, and both wines were fascinating and very enjoyable.

Dinner on Christmas Day was traditional lasagne, and the wine was the 2010 Mario Marengo Dolcetto d’Alba, a dark wine, purple with a pinkish rim, with rich characteristics of dark berry and lots of plum, purple flowers, and soft spice, and a nice balance of bright acidity with smooth tannins and a long enough finish. The wine is uncomplicated on the palate and unpretentious, and perfect for pairing with traditional Italian pasta dishes.

2010 Mario Marengo Dolcetto d’Alba

To finish off our Christmas wines, we sipped the 2006 Joseph Phelps “Insignia” (Napa - 95% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot) - this wine is luscious with a dark, dense purple color, with characteristics of dark fruit, black currant, rich baking spices and vanilla, dark chocolate, oak, stony earthiness, and a briny hint. The balance is excellent, with a bit of brightness but mostly soft plushness and smooth, elegant tannin, and a very long finish mostly reflecting the dark fruit and spice.

2006 Joseph Phelps Insignia

Christmas Wines - Part 1

2011-12-23T16:10:00.000-05:00

We began our Christmas festivities last night, and usually for holidays, I like to go with dependable wines - there’s always time to experiment and try more “unique” wines so I’d just rather stick with something I can trust on a holiday - although sometimes I can’t help but choose something a bit different.

To open last night, I chose the 2010 Domaine La Prevote Sauvignon Blanc Touraine (Loire), a light and enjoyable white to pair with cheeses before dinner. The wine is very pale in color, with lovely aromas and flavors of white citrus and flowers and a bit of herb, and cool stony characteristics, with just a hint of a tropical note. The best pairing for the wine from the cheeses, as I figured, was the fresh chevre, but the wine was bright and crisp and clean enough to work with all cheeses on the board.

With dinner (a delicious roast cooked medium rare) the wine was the 2008 Franciscan Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa), and the pairing was perfect (and the wine was consumed a bit quicker than anticipated, as it was so enjoyable). The wine is dark purple in color, with characteristics of cassis, dark berry, vanilla, a bit of chocolate, and smooth baking spices. Full and luscious, the wine has a lovely texture, enough acidity to work well with the roast but would pair nicely with lots of hearty dishes, and big tannins, with a long finish.

Before dinner was over, I had to turn to a backup bottle, but fortunately there are so many to choose from - so I selected the Bodegas La Cartuja Priorat, a dark red wine with warm characteristics of dark fruit, smoke, and scorched earth, a lovely smooth texture with a bit of brightness to it, and a lasting finish.

Christmas Eve and Christmas Day might just bring some “unique” bottles to pair with traditional Italian Christmas dinners and I look forward to trying some new wines and sharing my observations!

Shaw Vineyard 2007 Pinot Noir

2011-12-19T11:14:00.000-05:00

A couple of weeks ago I admitted that I had never tasted a wine from the Finger Lakes region until I tried a Sauvignon Blanc from Shaw Vineyard and really enjoyed it. Over the weekend I got to try another wine from Shaw, the 2007 Pinot Noir.

I’ve mentioned before that I had been spending much more time lately trying Old World wines, and my reasons being that I had been disappointed by a great many American wines from several regions, and also because of my general preference for Old World style wines. So many of the American wines I’ve tasted have been too “big” and catering to the notion that bigger means better, and others have been thin, or lacking in expression, depth, or complexity. Sure, there are many American wines that I really enjoy and many American producers for whom I have great respect (as evidenced in many other blog posts), but there had been so many disappointments lately that I directed almost all of my attention to Italy, France, Spain, and Germany.

And then I tried that Shaw Sauvignon Blanc and was very impressed, so I was really excited to taste the Pinot Noir, which would be the first red from the Finger Lakes that I’d ever try. And I was even more impressed with the Pinot - and it seems I have a new favorite East Coast Pinot Noir now.

Shaw Vineyard 2007 Pinot Noir

True, Shaw’s wines are reminiscent of Old World wines and I appreciate that style, but the expressiveness of the wines allowed me to perceive something different in them, different from other American wines - and I realized why it was different. The two Shaw wines I’ve tasted express the terroir, and since I’m generally unfamiliar with Finger Lakes terroir, I believe that’s what was unrecognizable and fascinating for me, and that’s one of the reasons why I found something different and unique in those two wines. For me, it’s essential that a wine show me its identity, and that’s exactly what happened, especially with the Pinot Noir.

The Pinot is a fairly bright red with a clear rim and looks beautiful in the glass and the decanter. The characteristics include bright but very smooth red fruit, especially cherry, cinnamon spice and a touch of vanilla, nice earthiness, and a wonderful balance with a smooth texture that leaves the palate feeling very clean, and a long finish that shows a lot of cherry and some more of that spice.

2007 was an excellent year for Finger Lakes reds with a dry spring and summer and an extended growing season, and this much was evident in that Pinot.

Some more information on the Shaw Vineyard 2007 Pinot Noir:

300 cases produced

36 months in French oak

Harvest date: early October 2007

Brix at harvest: 22.1

Tons per acre: 2.5

Seneca Lake Appellation

50% estate fruit, 50% leased acreage

www.shawvineyard.com

Champagne and Pinot Noir at The Country House

2011-12-16T11:35:00.000-05:00

People talk about being “home for the holidays,” but it’s a good time not just to be home but also at a “home away from home” which is where I was the other night - at one of my very favorite restaurants, and I’m lucky enough to live only a few minutes away from it. That restaurant is the Country House in Stony Brook, and Bob Willemstyn (the owner of the Country House, and a dear friend of our family) makes each dinner and event special.

The Country House - Stony Brook, NY

The other night, Bob had selected the Laurent-Perrier Demi-Sec Champagne to pair with small lobster tails in a wonderful butter sauce. It’s been ages since I’ve had a Demi-Sec style Champagne (while Demi-Sec sounds like it should mean “half-dry,” it’s actually a bit sweet in comparison to Brut style Champagne, with a sugar content between 32 and 50 grams per litre), and Bob had recently mentioned this particular Champagne and had it ready when our family arrived at the restaurant, and I was really excited to try it. It paired excellently with the lobster appetizer. The Champagne is a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and a bit of Pinot Meunier, with a golden color and great depth and complexity, including white citrus and orchard fruit, nut, and a bit of a baked characteristic, but the feature that stood out most for me was the sweetness, mostly floral and honeyed. I had been expecting the Champagne to be even sweeter, but in fact the sweetness was relatively subtle and the clean feel and smooth texture made for an elegant, luxurious experience.

Laurent-Perrier Demi-Sec Champagne

With dinner (I had duck), I chose the 2006 Buena Vista Carneros Pinot Noir. I can hardly believe that it was my first time trying a Buena Vista wine but it was, and it certainly lived up to its reputation of being dependable, expressive, and of good quality. Very “Pinot” in color, it’s red with a clear water rim, and characteristics of bright fruit, soft spices, an almost sophisticated earthiness, and lots of smokiness, with nice acidity and good balance, soft tannin and a long finish. The wine is lovely and very food friendly and I’m so happy I finally tried a Pinot from Buena Vista.

2006 Buena Vista Carneros Pinot Noir

2010 Guenoc Lake County Petite Sirah

2011-12-12T11:46:00.000-05:00

Winter is finally arriving here on Long Island and I’ll be focusing on some good reds for the colder months, for pairing with hearty winter dishes, sipping by the fireplace, or both. I don’t care much for cold weather but it does give me an excuse to enjoy some reds that are a perfect match for winter.

2010 Guenoc Lake County Petite Sirah

After Christmas tree shopping and watching the local parade last night, I chose the 2010 Guenoc Lake County Petite Sirah to sip for the evening. Petite Sirah I always reserve for winter months. The wine would pair up nicely to a hearty winter dish but it sips very nicely on its own. It has a very dark color as expected from a Petite Sirah (and yes, it left my tongue and teeth purple, also expected from a Petite Sirah). The wine showed characteristics of plum and dark berry, and freshly baked blueberry pie with a hint of wildness, a bit of soft chocolate and very soft spice, and violet. The texture is very smooth and luscious, not too acidic and really just very full and delicious with a finish reminiscent of the blueberry pie. A winter wine should be full, elegant, and fun, and that’s exactly what this Petite Sirah is. Another treasure from Lake Side Emotions Wine Boutique in nearby Stony Brook, it’s a reasonably priced red that delivers, and it’s a perfect wine for a winter evening. And remember - Petite Sirah is not to be confused with Syrah - it’s actually also known as Durif.

2006 Shafer One Point Five

2011-12-09T10:23:00.000-05:00

Many times when I’ve decided to order steak for dinner I’ll look over the wine list and usually decide on a Cabernet Sauvignon since I never tire of them. And lots of times I’ve considered the Shafer One Point Five Cabernet (Napa - Stags Leap District) but hadn’t had it yet, until last weekend when I chose the 2006 Shafer One Point Five. It was worth the wait and quickly took its place near the top of my list of favorite American Cabernets.

2006 Shafer One Point Five

The wine was decanted for some time before dinner, and the aromas were so powerful that even though the decanter was on the other side of the table while I sipped my Matua Sauvignon Blanc with my appetizer, I could still catch bold fruit, spice, and wood aromas coming from that decanter.

Finally it was time for Cabernet. The wine is a dark red with a lighter rim, not much brick and definitely still leaning toward a pinkish rim, indicating a fairly youthful wine, and it really coated the glass when swirled. The aromas were intense - both dark and red fruit, lots of berry and a bit of wildness in the fruit, chocolate, coffee, purple flowers, spices, smokiness, wood, and earth - so many layers - and the aromas were confirmed on the palate as well, particularly the darker fruit and lovely sophisticated spice. The wine is nicely balanced as I fully expected it to be, with plenty of acidity to accommodate the dish yet very present tannins, drying the palate and giving it a beautiful texture, and the finish is long.

I do love trying new things and opening bottles of wine that promise surprises and unexpected results, but there is something to be said for choosing a bottle from a very reputable region and producer, and the Shafer surely did not disappoint. I really enjoyed it and after a bit of an absence from American Cabernet, it was a welcome return.

Shaw Vineyard 2008 Sauvignon Blanc

2011-12-05T13:07:00.000-05:00

For some time now, I’ve been saying that I really need to try wines from the Finger Lakes. And I did intend to, but somehow kept getting caught up in trying wines from lesser known producers and regions of France and got distracted from my plan to try more local and domestic wines. Still, it’s a little ridiculous that after all this time, I hadn’t tried any Finger Lakes wines - especially since, even though I live pretty close to the North Fork region here on Long Island, Finger Lakes are still technically “local.”

Also, I hate to admit it, but I’ve been disappointed by a great many American wines over the past year or two, from many regions around the US. So while I remain very open minded about wines from every region of the world, I’ve been noticing my strong preference for Old World style wines. But I still wasn’t happy to admit, even to myself, that I still hand’t tried any wines from the Finger Lakes.

Shaw Vineyard 2008 Sauvignon Blanc

And on Friday evening I finally tried my first Finger Lakes wine - and I’m happy to report that it was excellent and I enjoyed it very much. It was the Shaw Vineyard 2008 Sauvignon Blanc. The wine is relatively light and seems really food friendly and versatile - it has characteristics of bright lemon, orchard fruit, and floral aromas, with lots of mineral characteristics, and crisp acidity and a clean feel. The wine reminded me more of an Old World style Sauvignon Blanc with its own identity, and perhaps that’s why it appealed to me so much. But I really enjoyed the wine and I look forward to tasting more Shaw wines, and I hope to try more wines from the Finger Lakes in the not too distant future.

2005 Sacco Barolo

2011-12-02T13:05:00.000-05:00

I’ve been meaning to write this one up as it was quite impressive - the 2005 Sacco Barolo, which I had with my birthday dinner of traditional fresh ravioli in a meat sauce.

2005 Sacco Barolo

It’s no secret that Nebbiolo is near the top of my list of favorite grape types; in fact it’s been vying with Cabernet for “favorite red” for some time now. I love bigger reds with a lot of character, particularly the kind that tend to age well, as I love to track their progress and compare them. And I do have an affinity for wines from Piemonte, so this wine was perfect for a birthday dinner for me.

I decanted the wine and allowed it to breathe for at least an hour. In the glass, the wine is very much a bright ruby color, reflective and ruby to the center with a rim leaning slightly brickish, indicating some age, although I think it’s got a bit of aging time left. Characteristics include both red and dark fruit with lots of elegant spices, wood, and potpourri with a hint of the “dirt road” characteristic. The wine shows nice acidity and the tannins are still very much present, which was not surprising to me. I’d like to try this wine again (if I can find it) in a few more years, to see how well it’s aged by then. The finish is long, and the pairing with the ravioli was perfect.

2008 Finca San Martin Rioja Crianza

2011-11-28T10:28:00.002-05:00

There was a time when I drank plenty of Spanish wine - in fact, the first red really to leave an impression on me was Celler Can Blau. Months back, I believe I covered a bunch of my favorite Spanish wines. I still enjoy Albarino and occasionally, I still reach for a Jumilla or Priorat, but I haven’t had a Rioja or Ribera del Duero that’s inspired me lately - until a few nights ago, when I had the 2008 Finca San Martin Rioja Crianza.

I hadn’t seen that bottle before but a few weeks ago came home with it from Lake Side Emotions Wine Boutique near home. Usually, the Spanish wines I’ve had are very high in alcohol, but this one was a welcome relief at only 13.5%. The wine is pure Tempranillo, and has a fairly dark color with a red rim with characteristics of bright fruit and smooth spices, some warm characteristics, wood, and a roasted meat note, with a very smooth texture and a long finish. I think this wine would be very food friendly and would pair up nicely with meats and cheeses, or it would sip well on its own, which is how I enjoyed it.

I think it’s time I hunt down some more Spanish wines - Rioja, Jumilla, Priorat, Ribera del Duero, and others. I used to enjoy them very much but began to shy away on account of the high alcohol levels and just stuck with a few favorites, but this Rioja was a pleasure and I’m ready for more.

Thanksgiving

2011-11-25T13:49:00.000-05:00

I’ve heard it’s proper to drink American wines on American holidays - however I haven’t had an American wine on any of the American holidays recently, although I do enjoy my share of American wine. Memorial Day, Fourth of July, Labor Day, Columbus Day - no American wines were on the menu. And Thanksgiving dinner yesterday was no different. I believe in drinking what you want, when you want it - provided it’s good quality and it pairs properly with the food being served. I consider myself patriotic in every area except food and wine, particularly with wine - I strongly prefer Old World wines. So for yesterday’s Thanksgiving dinner, the wine selections were all French.

After taking a vote in our family a few weeks back as to what would be the Champagne for this holiday, we decided on Bollinger Special Cuvee, which was as lovely as expected. The wine is bright and shows some characteristics of citrus and crisp green apple as well as baked apple, but really exhibits bigger notes of nut and spice and some baked bread, which is exactly the way I love a Champagne to be. The texture is luxurious, with fine bubbles and a creamy feel, and it was a perfect start to our family Thanksgiving celebration.

The white I chose was the 2009 Zind-Humbrecht Riesling from Alsace. I’m already a big fan of Alsace whites; I find them fascinating and exciting but not nearly to the point of being flamboyant. In fact, some of the wines I respect the most are the ones that manage to grab my attention, but in the most mysterious ways. This wine was a good example of what an Alsace Riesling should be, at least in my opinion. A fairly light golden color with almost no water rim, the wine is still very young, and shows somewhat restrained characteristics of citrus including lime and grapefruit, orchard fruit, and some tropical notes, followed by a hint of spice and waxiness, and rather a long finish. Lately I’ve come across some frivolous Rieslings that are off-balance and almost silly with their excessive fruit, almost as if they’re wearing too much makeup. This wine was such a welcome change - it’s a very serious Alsace Riesling and was excellent with our dinner.

I knew I’d be choosing a Pinot Noir, preferably French, but gave a lot of thought to the decision, and after looking through quite a few red Burgundies, I selected the 2009 Domaine Besson Givry 1er Cru Les Grands Pretans. Most of the Pinot Noir enjoyed by my family is American, particularly Oregon and Russian River Valley. But I wanted something different and I could not have asked for a better pairing with Thanksgiving dinner. The wine is a lovely ruby color, youthful but very enjoyable with characteristics of mostly cherry and berry, particularly tart cranberry and a bit of raspberry to soften the fruit, a hint of spice, and that “roasted meat” characteristic that I love so much in some red wines, that makes it just a bit rustic and perfectly food-friendly. The wine feels so clean, with wonderful acidity and just a bit of soft texture, and a nice finish. I was so happy with the wines for the evening.

And tonight - perhaps an American Chardonnay at last?

Birthday Barolo and an Exciting Roter Veltliner

2011-11-21T11:13:00.002-05:00

It’s November 21...which means today I’m another year older. But fortunately I’m still getting proofed, even after mentioning that I’m a sommelier, so perhaps I don’t quite look my age. Tonight for my birthday dinner, I’ll be opening a 2005 Sacco Barolo, about which I’ll post my tasting notes later on this week.

2005 Sacco Barolo

Last night I tried something fun and new - it seems I can’t go to Lake Side Emotions Wine Boutique without finding something I’ve never tried before. This was the 2009 Leth Roter Veltliner from Wagram, Austria. I know it sounds like Gruner Veltliner, but in fact the only thing the two grapes have in common is their place of origin. They’re not related - in fact, not much is known of Roter Veltliner’s parentage.

2009 Leth Roter Veltliner

The Roter Veltliner is a pale yellow/straw color and a bit viscous, with soft aromas and characteristics of citrus including orange and grapefruit, orchard fruit (particularly a soft apple note), but mostly tropical fruit including coconut and pineapple and something I couldn’t quite pinpoint, as well as a cool mineral characteristic and very soft spice. The wine is a bit on the exotic and unique side and unlike anything I’ve tasted before. It has enough acidity to feel clean and make it food-friendly, but a somewhat sweet taste that masks the acidity slightly. It was paired with grilled mahi mahi and my own risotto recipe. At under $20 here in NY, it seems like a good value for an exciting and elegant wine.

6th Sense Syrah

2011-11-18T10:36:00.001-05:00

Over the past year or so, I’ve tried some less than impressive American Syrahs. Too much fruit, or too much spice, whatever the case was, I wasn’t enjoying them.

And then, not long ago, I received a gift in the mail, which I finally opened last weekend - a bottle of the 2008 Michael-David 6th Sense Syrah from Lodi. Already impressed with Seven Deadly Zins Zinfandel from the same winery, I was eager to try the Syrah. Syrah based wines had been among my favorites, particularly from the Rhone and from South Australia - but those Syrah wines have not been particularly similar to the American Syrahs I’ve tasted. And now I was ready to try another American Syrah.

2008 Michael-David 6th Sense Lodi Syrah

6th Sense Syrah has a deep ruby color and characteristics of dark berry and cherry, jam, some smooth baking spices and vanilla, black pepper, and smoke. The fruit and spice flavors provided an excellent contrast to the dish I chose, and the smokiness was also a good parallel to the ingredients in the dish. The dish was a recipe I created as I prepared it - a sort of “mature” mac-n-cheese with cheddar, parmigiano reggiano, gruyere, and smoked gouda, as well as caramelized onions and pancetta. I do love pairing Syrah with bigger flavored cheeses, and the smokiness of the wine worked perfectly with the smoked gouda and pancetta. The acidity in the wine made it food-friendly for sure and cut through the creamy cheese in the dish, and the wine had enough smooth but very present tannin to give it a luscious texture. The finish reflects the fruit and spice.

6th Sense Syrah with mac-n-cheese

I enjoyed this wine with dinner and throughout the evening and it’s currently my favorite American Syrah. The flavors come together beautifully, the wine is nicely balanced, and I love the texture.

Something New - Mondeuse

2011-11-14T10:02:00.000-05:00

In terms of wine, there are few things that make me happier than to try something new and completely different from anything I’ve had - it’s exciting and I know I’m learning something, and at the same time enjoying it.

2007 Domaine Thierry Tissot Vin du Bugey Mataret Mondeuse

Last night I tried something new - the 2007 Domaine Theirry Tissot Vin du Bugey Mataret - 100% Mondeuse. I’m pretty sure I’ve never tried a Mondeuse before but I’m so glad I did. Mondeuse grows in a few regions around the world but it’s far from being popular, and the region where it’s probably best known is Savoie, an Alpine sort of region in France. Knowing that it’s from a cooler climate area, I figured it would be sleek and elegant and it was just that. Somewhat similar to a Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir from the cool wine regions of Germany) but in my opinion more complex than a Spatburgunder, the wine is a reddish color with an almost crimson rim, not particularly viscous (indicating the 12% alcohol), it shows characteristics of red fruit, somewhat tart cherry and red plum, gentle spices, bright acidity making it quite food friendly, and a smooth, velvety texture from its soft tannins. The wine is relatively light but has enough depth and weight to pair up even to meat dishes, but it’s also perfect for sipping. The finish is long and continues to reflect the fruit and spice characteristics.

I really enjoyed this Mondeuse, and I’d be happy to try others. I’ve also got some interesting reds and whites planned for the near future and will be blogging about them.

Some Online Tasting - #eTaste with @TheVirtualTaste and #LanguedocDay

2011-11-11T11:40:00.000-05:00

It’s no secret that online wine tasting is becoming increasingly popular, particularly with global events such as days dedicated to a particular grape type, wine style, or region. I’ve been asked why I participate in such events when I could just participate in local tasting events. I do participate in local events but since it’s impossible to taste along with people all around the world if I keep it local, I enjoy the global wine tasting days.

Recently I’ve been participating in monthly #eTaste events with North of 9 Fine Wine/The Virtual Taste, a great source for all kinds of wine information in great detail. Last month I covered the Masi Amarone that we tasted via Twitter. This month we tasted the 2010 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc from Marlborough, New Zealand. Cloudy Bay is perhaps the best Sauvignon Blanc I’ve tasted from a region outside of France, and it really does reflect its New World style, particularly that of New Zealand. Bright and lovely, it’s a pale straw color with medium viscosity in the glass. The characteristics are those of some citrus, including lime, grapefruit, and a bit of sweet orange, orchard fruits including soft peach and a hint of pear, and lots of tropical fruit, particularly mango and papaya - and of course the wine showed the very much expected gooseberry characteristic. Other characteristics included herb, fresh cut grass, blossoms of fruit trees, and white stony mineral. The wine feels cool and has nice acidity with a bright, crisp, clean texture and a long finish. It was paired with shrimp and spaghetti in a creamy sauce with herbs. The acidity cut through the creamy sauce and the grassy characteristics paralleled the herbs in the dish.

2010 Cloudy Bay Sauvignon Blanc - Marlborough, NZ

Yesterday was #LanguedocDay, where we all tweeted about wines from France’s Languedoc-Roussillon region. I still remain a bit skeptical of those wines, as I’ve had plenty of good Languedocs but have also tasted my share of unappealing ones. To be sure I tasted some unique, good quality wines, however, I made sure to go to the right wine shop - Lake Side Emotions Wine Boutique at the nearby Stony Brook Village Center. It’s a fantastic wine shop for sure, with an excellent selection of both domestic but mostly foreign wines, generally less common and still great quality (not to mention just how beautiful and tastefully done the wine shop is).

The first wine of the evening was the 2007 Domaine Philippe Chesnelong Les Creisses Vin de Pays d’Oc, a really fun Languedoc red consisting of Syrah, Grenache, and Cabernet Sauvignon. It’s a fairly dark ruby color with a lighter rim turning slightly brickish indicating just a bit of age, and medium viscosity that stains the glass. Characteristics were many and included both red and dark fruit, wild berry and cherry, dark chocolate, spice and woodiness, a bit of pepper, dry flower petals, a strong note of saddle leather, dry earthy characteristics, a hint of that “animal” characteristic, some fresh tobacco, and an overall “outdoorsy” feel. The wine is very unpretentious and smooth and easy to enjoy, and I’d say it would be quite food friendly, particularly with cheeses and meats. It’s properly balanced, with nice acidity and soft tannins, and a long smooth finish. I loved this wine and would go for it again in a heartbeat.

2007 Domaine Philippe Chesnelong Les Creisses Vin de Pays d’Oc

The second wine of the evening was the 2004 Domaine Philippe Chesnelong Les Brunes Vin de Pays d’Oc, a more serious wine than the first. It’s a blend of Cabernet Sauvgnon, Syrah, and Mourvedre, and is very dark in color with a brickish color setting in, both on the rim and throughout, very viscous and stains the glass quite a bit. Characteristics include lots of plum, a bit of raisin, dark cherry skin, a bit of dark chocolate, a hint of herb, and lots of wood and spice including anise which stood out a lot to me. The wood characteristics are more noticeable than earthiness. The wine is really well balanced with enough acidity for food pairing but bigger tannins than the first wine, and I believe this wine would continue to age gracefully. It’s really dry on the palate, feels warm, and has a very long finish.

2004 Domaine Philippe Chesnelong Les Brunes Vin de Pays d’Oc

Some of the virtues of online tasting events, for me at least, include being able to compare tasting notes and opinions on specified topics with wine friends and acquaintances all around the world. While they do not replace real tastings where we all taste from the same bottle and make a more literal analysis of tasting a wine, online and virtual tasting have become lots of fun for me and I look forward to more online tasting events. Next week I will feature some tasting notes of the upcoming online event for Beaujolais Nouveau Day.

Trinchero Wine Dinner at Casa Rustica

2011-11-07T10:14:00.001-05:00

Last week I attended a Trinchero Wines dinner at Casa Rustica here on Long Island. The food at Casa Rustica is consistently excellent and this dinner was very enjoyable. Some of the wines were very nice as well but some were less than what I had expected.

We began with the Trinchero Mary’s Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc paired with a mushroom strudel (wild mushroom, puff pastry, and goat cheese). The pairing was good - the wine is a pale straw color with lots of citrus including lemon and grapefruit and underlying mineral characteristics. However, I often find that some of the California Sauvignon Blancs are lacking in identity a bit in that I can’t quite pinpoint a particular characteristic that defines them. While I liked this wine, nothing really stood out about it.

Next was the Napa Cellars (Trinchero’s second label) Pinot Noir, paired with fettuccine with butternut squash and lobster. The dish was excellent but the wine was unimpressive to me. Red and showing characteristics of some cherry and very light spice, the wine seemed very thin - the acidity was there but there was almost no texture. When drinking a Pinot Noir I generally expect a soft, velvety feel to accompany the acidity, and I wasn’t feeling that at all.

We then went back to white with the Napa Cellars Chardonnay, paired with pan seared scallops in a sweet corn puree, and both the dish and the wine were very enjoyable. The Chardonnay is very much a California wine but done so tastefully and not at all heavy or overoaked. The wine is a somewhat light golden color with characteristics of citrus and a lot of orchard fruit (apple, pear, and a bit of peach), some soft baking spices, a bit of vanilla, and a smooth buttery texture that keeps the wine feeling smooth yet the acidity comes through and keeps the palate feeling clean, making this Chardonnay particularly food friendly. Just before the long finish, there is just a slight taste of caramel, one of my favorite characteristics in properly made American Chardonnay. I would go for this wine again anytime.

In my opinion, the star of the tasting was the Trinchero Meritage, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc, paired with veal tenderloin in a Madeira sauce. The wine is dark in color with a bit of a reddish rim, and characteristics of both dark and red fruit and lots of blackberry, with soft spices, a very smooth feel, and a wonderful balance of acidity and tannin, with a long and smooth finish. I was especially pleased by this wine.

We finished the dinner with the Terra d’Oro Moscato paired with a pumpkin creme brulee. The pairing was fun and delicious and I enjoyed the Moscato. It’s pale in color with lots of peach aroma and flavor, and nice acidity behind the sweetness.

The Lenz Winery

2011-11-04T11:12:00.000-04:00

Last week while out east I stopped at Lenz Winery. I had actually never been to that winery but I’ve had their wines before - my favorite has always been their Gewurztraminer. And, not surprisingly, the Gewurztraminer was probably my favorite in the tasting room, or at the very least in my top three that day.

We began with the 2008 Blanc de Noir - 100% Pinot Noir - a very light and pale wine leaning toward Rose, with soft characteristics of white citrus, tart cherry, a bit of berry and a hint of earthiness. The wine has bright acidity, making it food friendly (although I’m not so sure it would stand up to more than light fare), I think it would pair nicely with local seafood. The finish was respectable.

Next up was the 2007 Gewurztraminer, a slightly golden colored wine with characteristics expected from a Gewurz - lychee, peach, apricot, mostly tropical fruit with some orchard fruits, white blossom and a lot of floral notes, elegant spice, nice underlying acidity, and a long finish. I do realize that I might be slightly biased as I have always been an admirer of Gewurz, but this is a lovely wine and I was so happy to enjoy it yet again.

I then tried the 2005 Cuvee, 100% Pinot Noir. The wine is not overly aromatic, with characteristics of lots of citrus, mostly the bright acidic juice of a freshly squeezed lemon, crisp green apple, and not much of the baked bread characteristic that I had almost anticipated. While the sparkling wine is food friendly due to its bubbly nature and crisp flavor, it might be a bit too acidic for my taste, as I generally prefer some more floral, nut, and bread characteristics incorporated into a sparkling wine.

Next was the 2007 White Label Chardonnay, another of my favorites of the tasting. A light golden color, the wine is mostly done in stainless steel but with a bit of oaked Chardonnay blended in, and the result is very nice. Characteristics of white citrus, green apple, and baking spice with a hint of butterscotch come through with a somewhat buttery texture but a clean and crisp feel, a nice finish, and overall I really enjoyed this wine.

I then tried the first of the two reds I selected (and this wine was also among my favorites of the day) - the 2007 Estate Selection Merlot. The wine is a ruby color with a bit of a lighter rim, and displays characteristics of cherry, raspberry, and chocolate. The aromas would indicate sweetness but on the palate the wine is dry, smooth, and has bright acidity, making it very food friendly, and has soft tannins as well, giving it a nice texture, and has a respectable finish. I’d like this wine especially for the cooler months and for pairing with dishes that have bolder flavors.

The last wine was the 2002 Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon, a nice wine beginning to show its age in a positive way. The wine has a deep color and shows characteristics of currant and red fruit with a bit of plum and gentle spices. It’s a fairly sophisticated wine with a nice texture and a long finish and would also be a nice choice for pairing with heavier dishes.

The tasting room staff is friendly and knowledgeable, and the winery itself is beautiful. What I liked most about Lenz - the wines are not too young to be enjoyed now, as most of the wines I tasted had aged a bit. When tasting at a winery, usually I try really young wines and sometimes they appear immature and occasionally a bit awkward - but not these wines, as they had already spent some time nearing their full potential. Another positive about Lenz is that the wines are generally made of a single grape type, instead of like some of the blends I’ve tasted at Long Island wineries. I do appreciate creativity when blending a wine, but sometimes I feel that grapes that should not be together are in the same bottle and tend to produce a wine that does not properly express Long Island’s terroir - it’s hard to learn much about what our climate and soil can produce if too many grape types are blended together. Lenz is doing a very nice job of creating wines that express Long Island soil and climate, and I was pleased with their wines.

Halloween

2011-10-31T09:41:00.000-04:00

It’s Halloween, probably my least favorite holiday of the year. It’s not because there’s no festive dinner to enjoy wine with, or because I despise candy corn, or because I don’t care much for wearing a costume. But I’m getting ahead of myself.

Sometimes, if we’re very lucky, we meet people who change our lives - truly special people. I was lucky to meet someone unique, in that considering his young age, he was very much loved and valued by so many people and touched a great many lives, on account of his being kind, considerate, fun, generous, and sincere, but to a degree unlike anyone else I know. It’s near impossible to describe a person like him, simply because they’re so rare, and interestingly enough, he didn’t perceive himself as someone so different, because he was only doing what came naturally to him. I was so fortunate to call him my friend for years, and when I finally began to set aside some of the fears and concerns as well as bad habits I’d picked up in the past, I was able to see him differently - something very different from an ordinary friendship. It was something I had looked for in a guy for a long time, something indescribable that somehow made me feel very valued, very special - even though I was afraid to admit it - and that failure to really act on it is something I’ll probably regret forever.

Move ahead to Halloween morning, 2009 - I learn that this very special guy, someone I cared for immensely, was killed in an accident during the night, at age 27. No more nights together, we’d never eat together, watch a game together, and laugh for hours, ever again.

It isn’t so much the holiday of Halloween that bothers me - it’s just that I’m not ready to celebrate that holiday yet. Two years may seem like a long time, but when recounting that experience, it feels like only yesterday.

An open minded guy, he knew I loved wine and while he didn’t have a lot of knowledge of the topic, he still enjoyed it. He liked going to the wineries out east here on Long Island, and he liked his Italian reds, which would be a perfect pairing with his excellent Italian cooking. One day, years back on a special day for me, he brought a bottle of Ruffino Modus to the house (among other gifts). It was before Modus got very popular and when I drink it now, instead of thinking of color, aromas, flavors, structure, and finish, I think of him.

And just a few weeks after he passed away, his mother took me into his apartment. We touched his clothing, his bed, the things he used just hours before he died. While she searched through the apartment to find things to give to me that were his, we came across a bottle of Cantina Zaccagnini Montepulciano d’Abruzzo which my dad had just given him that week. The bottle was only half finished. And I was only half finished showing him just how special I knew he was, and how much I cared for him. An angel on earth had been called home, and I do believe that angel still watches over me and over all those whose lives he touched.

Riposa in pace, Emilio. Sempre tu rimani nel mio cuore.

Champagne and Sekt

2011-10-28T09:23:00.001-04:00

I know it’s Global #ChampagneDay and there’s a bottle of Nicolas Feuillatte ready for tonight. And a few nights ago, Taittinger made an appearance - the non-vintage really is nice. But after the Champagne was finished that evening, I decided to open a bottle of Deinhard Lila Riesling Sekt - German sparkling Riesling. I had never tasted Sekt and had a difficult time finding a bottle but my parents found the Deinhard Lila for me while on a trip to Newport, RI.

The wine is a lot lighter in color than the Taittinger. The aromas and flavors are similar to that of a regular dry Riesling - citrus, crisp apple, peach, apricot, white blossoms, and just a bit of honey - but the wine isn’t sweet. It’s a fun sparkling wine and very food friendly.

The NV Taittinger Brut Reserve is more golden in color with characteristics of a bit of citrus, crisp green apple, baked bread but not a strong yeasty characteristic, and a long finish reflecting honey and rich caramel. The texture is smooth but the bubbles are assertive, and the Champagne is really enjoyable. I’m looking forward to trying the Nicolas Feuillatte tonight for #ChampagneDay!

Taittinger and Deinhard Lila

Torrontes

2011-10-24T10:41:00.001-04:00

I’ve posted before about my love for Gewurztraminer and how it was my first real love in the wine world. It was the beckoning aromas of tropical and orchard fruits, including lychee, peach, apricot, pineapple, and fresh flowers and spices, and its flavors including those tropical and orchard fruits as well as a touch of honey and spice, accompanied by bright acidity.

Recently, Argentinian Malbec has been leaving its mark on me with its lovely texture and dark characteristics of blueberry, chocolate, purple flowers, and others. This weekend I enjoyed another Argentinian wine, but the Malbec is waiting until later on in the week - this time it was a Torrontes. Torrontes makes for a fascinating wine, and often similar to Gewurztraminer - so it stands to reason that I’d enjoy Torrontes. The wine was the 2010 Diseno Torrontes from Salta, Argentina, and it was paired with grilled Cajun salmon. Straw colored and aromatic, and displaying characteristics of tropical and orchard fruit similar to Gewurztraminer, followed by some honey, flowers, gentle spices, and bright acidity with a bit of tangerine just before a lengthy and enjoyable finish, the wine was refreshing and lovely but fun.

Torrontes will not replace Gewurztraminer of course, but it’s a nice alternative and a good way to keep it fresh and exciting.

2010 Diseno Torrontes

An Evening of Networking, Cake, and Wine

2011-10-21T09:26:00.000-04:00

This week I took part in a networking reception for wedding professionals and vendors. The event was hosted by my lovely friend Chef Marney White of Marneycakes Inc., and my goal for the night was to choose several wines to pair with cheeses and four of Marney’s cakes. However, I had a couple of other goals - to learn a bit about the guests’ wine preferences, and then to encourage them to step out of their wine “comfort zones” and try something different.

The cheeses I selected were fresh goat cheese, brie, cheddar, and bleu cheese, and the wines for the cheese pairing were the 2010 Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, 2010 Louis Jadot Macon-Villages Chardonnay, 2009 d’Arenberg The Stump Jump Grenache-Shiraz-Mourvedre, and 2008 Edge Napa Cabernet Sauvignon. Most people I know outside of the wine industry tend to lean toward Sauvignon Blanc as their white wine of choice, and I find it interesting how many of them shy away from Chardonnay. So I decided on both a Sauvignon Blanc and a Chardonnay that I consider dependable and reasonably priced.

Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc, a bright, crisp white with both tropical fruit and herbal characteristics that we’d expect of a New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, was already a favorite of many of the guests. But I explained that they’d like the Chardonnay because it’s an unoaked white that shows a lot of clean citrus, orchard fruit, and chalky notes and consequently is a bright, clean Chardonnay instead of having heavy, baked, overoaked characteristics that have turned them away from Chardonnay. And sure enough, I poured more Chardonnay than Sauvignon Blanc. I hope that the guests will reconsider Chardonnay when wine shopping or ordering a white wine in a restaurant after realizing that not all Chardonnays are the oaky kind - in fact many are not.

Several guests also told me they are not red wine drinkers. I actually love when someone tells me a thing like that, because it gives me a chance to try and persuade the person to try a red. And I did just that - for the regular red wine drinkers, there was no problem having them try both the d’Arenberg The Stump Jump (a last minute addition to the lineup and interestingly one of the favorites of the evening) and the Edge Cabernet. But for the non-red drinkers, I asked them to taste the d’Arenberg, explaining that it’s a blend that’s not particularly heavy and has fascinating characteristics of red and dark fruit, spice, and earthiness - a good quality wine from a dependable producer at a very reasonable price (here in New York it’s about $12). I was so happy to hear their reactions to the wine - “it’s not a harsh red,” “it’s a red I can drink,” “it’s only $12?” I do hope these guests continue to find red wines that they enjoy. As for the regular red drinkers, aside from enjoying the d’Arenberg, I was happy to introduce them to Edge Cabernet, as none of them had ever tried this Napa red before. Big and bold with characteristics of dark fruit, spice, and vanilla oak, it’s one of my favorite California Cabernets around $25, and I was not at all surprised at how well it was received by guests.

Marney served her delicious cakes - the lighter cakes were a vanilla cake with blood orange liqueur, and a spice cake with pear brandy and cinnamon-vanilla filling, and the darker cakes were a chocolate cake with apricot and Grand Marnier, and a chocolate gluten-free cake with chocolate ganache. For the lighter cakes, I chose the 2009 Dr. Hans Von Muller Auslese Mosel Riesling, with characteristics of peach, apricot, and pineapple, and I explained that while many of our guests are familiar with dry Rieslings, this Riesling was on the sweeter side as the grapes are picked later (and I’d say this wine was the favorite of the evening). For the chocolate cakes, I chose the 2004 Pindar Vineyards Cabernet Port from right here on Long Island. The wine is a smooth, fortified wine with characteristics of cooked fruit and berries, a hint of caramel, raisin, and a bit of earthiness, and paired perfectly with both the chocolate cakes, and the truffles provided by Afresh Approach. Most of the guests were familiar with the wines from Long Island wineries, but few had tasted this dessert wine before, and it was very well received.

I was so happy to have an opportunity to pair wines with Marney’s amazing cakes, and I was also really pleased that the guests kept an open mind with all of the wines and enjoyed them as much as they did.

Weekend Wine - #eTaste with @TheVirtualTaste, Kevin Zraly at Bedell Cellars

2011-10-17T11:02:00.000-04:00

This was a fun and exciting wine weekend, and I’m looking forward to even more wine excitement this week.

#eTaste with @TheVirtualTaste

Saturday (October 15) I participated in the first #eTaste hosted by North of 9 Fine Wines and @TheVirtualTaste on twitter. If you’ve never checked out North of 9 Fine Wines, it’s a must - the posts are very informative and take a detailed approach to wine tasting. The wine was the 2007 Masi Costasera Amarone Classico, which I enjoyed very much. I made sure to decant the wine just over an hour before we began the online tasting, allowing the wine to open up quite a bit. The wine is a deep ruby color, showing some clarity indicating that it’s approaching drinking time (although it has plenty of time to go, as indicated by the tannins), and the rim is pinkish but beginning to show traces of brick. Characteristics include macerated blueberry, raspberry, and cherry, a bit of wild berry and bramble, chocolate, baking spices including cinnamon and clove, herbs, a hint of wood, and scorched earth. The wine showed nice acidity but firm tannins that indicated the wine should age nicely for some time, and the finish is long and lovely and reflected the fruit and herb and spice notes. I paired this wine with a marbled steak, gorgonzola, and walnuts.

2007 Masi Costasera Amarone Classico

Each month, @TheVirtualTaste will host an online tasting via twitter with the hashtag #eTaste. For more information and to join us, visit North of 9 Fine Wines, which can be found right here on my blog page.

On Sunday (October 16), I visited Bedell Cellars for Kevin Zraly’s discussion and book signing. I was so excited to hear him speak as I love his book and have learned a great deal from his writing. His discussion was both informative and entertaining - and after meeting him and speaking with him for a few minutes, I decided that I will take his Windows on the World Wine School course, and I plan to enroll over the winter. In addition, I got to taste Bedell Cellars Gallery and Musee, but since I will be visiting the winery again in a few weeks, I will include my tasting notes in that post.

Kevin Zraly at Bedell Cellars

Drink Local Week

2011-10-14T10:40:00.000-04:00

In the spirit of Drink Local week, for my regular “Wine Wednesday” selection I went with a local wine from a winery with which I have no experience - but that’s about to change soon, as I really enjoyed the wine.

Living as close as I do to the Long Island wine region, particularly the North Fork, I feel kind of spoiled and lucky to have access to some awesome wines of great variety. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, and Chardonnay are among the most dependable grape types here on Long Island, but winemakers are working with so many different grapes and finding some very good results. This past summer I reviewed a lot of Long Island wines before switching to some lesser known Old World and South American wines, and soon I’ll be reviewing more Long Island wines.

It’s no secret that there’s an economic recession going on. A year ago I made a promise to myself that I would try to buy and drink more domestic wines, and my 2011 New Year’s resolution was to support smaller wineries. Sure, one could make the argument that one person cannot make much of a difference in the economy. However, it all begins with one person, and in fact there are many of us currently making an effort to support our local economies - shopping at small local stores, giving our business to local establishments, buying produce at local farms, and - yes - buying our wine from the local wineries. It’s important to channel money back into our local economies, and it’s also a good way to connect with locals who should not be strangers, but rather friends and neighbors. And it’s exciting to watch local businesses develop; it’s especially exciting to watch a wine region mature and find its own identity. Here on Long Island, the wine region has been doing just that, and the result has been some excellent quality wines that are expressive of the region’s identity and character.

2005 Sherwood House Merlot

Some of my favorites are the wines produced by Bedell, Macari, Shinn, Raphael, and a few from Pindar. But this time, for Drink Local week, I decided to try a wine from a winery whose wines I’ve never tasted before (but fully intend to change that after my most recent experience) - Sherwood House. Lately I’ve only been hearing good things about their wines from local wine enthusiasts, and I chose the 2005 Merlot. I paired it with my dinner of veal cutlets in a sage and Merlot sauce and portobello mushrooms and the pairing was excellent. The wine is an almost dark cranberry red with a brickish rim indicating its age, and showing characteristics of cherry, both fresh and stewed berries, just a hint of green pepper, gentle spices and herbs, earth, and just a touch of wood and a hint of smoke. The structure is lovely and the wine is elegant and mature, with bright acidity making it particularly food friendly, and soft tannins, with a long finish reflecting the fruit and herb notes. I really enjoyed this wine and I look forward to more from Sherwood House.

Time for Reds

2011-10-07T10:42:00.000-04:00

Every year I hate coming to terms with the fact that summer is over. I love summer - baseball season, beach, listening to Jimmy Buffett, being outdoors all the time, and of course cool, crisp white wines. And it seems it’s time to make the official transition away from summer this year, at least here in New York that’s the case.

I don’t look forward to the cooler months - I’ve never gone skiing before and I’ve never been to an NFL game (I do realize that needs to change and I’d be happy to do both), I just prefer all things pertaining to summer. I suppose the cooler months have their perks though; it’s an excuse to drink more red wines and of course it means the return of hockey. And I do love an exhilarating hockey game and few things agree with me more than a big Cabernet or Nebbiolo.

This past summer I got some great deals on big, bold reds from well-known producers and several of those bottles are waiting to be opened during these upcoming cooler months. Being so spoiled by the warm weather and lovely crisp whites, perhaps I’ve forgotten just how much I love some of those warm, expressive, complex reds. It’s also a good opportunity to continue experimenting with fascinating reds from lesser known regions.

So as the cooler months approach and I’m by the fireplace watching a hockey game or spending time playing my piano, I’ll have a chance to sip a dependable Cabernet, Nebbiolo, or dare I say it - Zinfandel - or an intriguing Tannat or Negrette. And hopefully I’ll have made plenty of new wine discoveries by the time spring arrives again.

Guild of Sommeliers Tasting - Southwest France

2011-09-30T09:49:00.000-04:00

This week I had the pleasure of attending my first Guild of Sommeliers wine tasting, and the wines featured were from Sud-Ouest, or Southwest France. The tasting was particularly enjoyable and informative thanks to the presenters, Master Sommelier Fred Dexheimer, with Master Sommelier Scott Carney. I was pleasantly surprised by the very good quality of the wines, and upon hearing the price range of the twelve wines we tasted, I was even more impressed, and will be sure to make an effort to locate more Southwest France wines. In addition, it was an opportunity to be exposed to some grape varieties I’ve never tasted before, and they were truly fascinating.

The first wine we tasted was the Gaillac Blanc, Domaine des Terrisses 2010, a blend of 50% Len del Lel, 30% Mauzac, and 20% Sauvignon Blanc. The wine was reminiscent of a Sauvignon Blanc, with its pale color and characteristics of citrus, some orchard fruit, green apple, a bit of tropical notes, some what blossoms, and very bright acidity, and clean feel, yet had something unique about it, separating it from Sauvignon Blanc but leaving it in the “food friendly” category and finding much favor with my palate.

Next was the Saint Mont "Les Vignes Retrouvees" Plaim' Arques 2009, another wine with bright acidity and a blend of 60% Gros Manseng, 30% Petit Courbu, and 10% Arrufiac. This wine was also relatively pale but slightly riper in characteristics than the first wine, it still had citrus and orchard fruit notes and lots of bright acidity but was longer in its finish - another food friendly wine.

The last white of the first flight was the Pacherenc du Vic Bilh Sec, Chateau Montus 2008 - this was a blend of 90% Petit Courbu and 10% Petit Manseng and based upon its rich golden color, its contact with new barrels was easy to identify. Also based upon the golden color it was easy to guess that the wine would be more dense than the first two, and would possess characteristics of baked orchard fruit and baking spices with a bit of citrus, blossoms, honeysuckle, and plenty of oak. Still, the wine showed enough acidity and a clean feel, and seemed that it would pair well with somewhat heavier dishes including poultry and pork. I was fascinated by this wine as it was quite oaky but not offensively so, and the acidity came through nicely.

We then moved on to the reds, and began with the Marcillac, “Lo Sang del Pais” Domaine du Cros 2010, 100% Mansois - a bright wine with notes of cherry and berry, a hint of herb and a wild characteristic, a bit of earthiness, and bright acidity with lots of texture with a long finish. For me, this wine showed characteristics of both Languedoc-Roussillon and Beaujolais wines and was an interesting introduction to Southwest reds.

Next was the Gaillac Rouge "Rroix d'Azal" Domaine Philemon 2009 which I liked very much - 100% Braucol. The wine is very aromatic with characteristics of fruit with herb and a bit of earth, lots of leather, black pepper, and a characteristic on the nose almost like cologne and incense - I really liked the aromas of this wine. And the flavors did not disappoint, confirming the aromas and showing nice acidity with a soft texture. This was one of my favorite reds of the tasting.

The last red of the first flight was the Fronton, "Ce Vin" Chateau Bellevue La Foret 2008, 100% Negrette and fantastic. The wine has a dark color and is beginning to show a bit of age with a hint of rust color in its rim. The characteristics are both red and dark fruit with some baking spice and some chocolate and a bit of earth. The balance of acidity and tannin is excellent, and the wine finished a bit thinner than the nose would indicate.

The second flight began with the Madiran "Cuvee Moutoue Fardet" Clos Fardet 2005, a blend of 98% Tannat and 2% Cabernet Franc. The wine is fairly dark in color with a bit of brick on the rim indicating its age, and has characteristics of some cooked fruit, earth, and ash, the aromas are bold, and the wine is acidic with lots of texture, and a long finish. This red was among my favorites of the tasting.

Next was the Madiran, Chateau Montus 2006, a blend of 80% Tannat and 20% Cabernet Franc. This wine is good for transitioning from summer into the cooler months - it has notes of soft fruit and spice and earth and an “outdoor” sort of characteristic, a smooth texture, and a lengthy finish. I actually liked the aroma better than the flavor of this wine.

The next red was the Madiran, Chateau Bouscasse 2007, a blend of 60% Tannat, 25% Cabernet Franc, and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. This fairly dark wine has characteristics of soft yet very present fruit, spice, and a green, herbal note that I could also detect on the finish. The wine is nicely balanced and the finish is long.

The last of the Madiran wines was the "Charles de Batz" Domaine Berthoumieu 2007, a blend of 90% Tannat and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. This “stoic” red is almost purplish with a hint of pink on the rim, indicating its youth. The wine has notes of more dark fruit than red fruit, it is a bit spicy and dense with big aromas and lots of texture.

The final red was the Irouleguy, "Ohitza" Domaine Brana, 2008, a blend of 80% Tannat and 20% Cabernet Franc. This was a fascinating wine, with a purplish red color and characteristics of red fruit and a bit of green pepper (presumably as a result of the Cabernet Franc), a bit of spice, a nice aroma and a somewhat light, cool feel, reflecting its Atlantic influence. This was perhaps the most elegant red of the tasting.

The last wine of the tasting (and probably my favorite) was the Pacherenc du Vic Bilh Doux "Brumaire" Chateau Bouscasse 2007, a sweet wine made of 100% Petit Manseng. The wine is golden in color, with characteristics of honey, apricot, peach, candied fruits, and baking spice, a very smooth feel and a long finish. The wine has enough acidity and the perfect flavor to pair ideally with foie gras, a staple in the region. The wine has similar characteristics to Sauternes, except it is not botrytized - it is harvested in November, raisinated, and then fermented. I must admit this wine was not spit into the cup - I drank it. I liked it that much.

Transitioning Into Wine Appreciation

2011-09-23T10:15:00.001-04:00

Often I’m asked how I transitioned into loving wine. For me, it wasn’t just about flavor or how well wine accompanied food, even though that was a large part of it. But I enjoy researching topics that begin to fascinate me, and that’s a big part of what attracted me to wine. I didn’t know back then that I’d be asked so often how it started. So it’s fun for me to watch others transition into wine appreciation when they hadn’t previously taken much interest in wine.

I’m asked really often by the people around me for wine recommendations, both for sipping and for pairing (as I’m always giving out my recipes and consequently my suggested pairings), but I find it’s easier to suggest wines to family and friends who already enjoy wine, so I can compare regions or varietals and make recommendations based upon what the person usually enjoys. For me, the challenge is converting a non-wine drinker and figuring out how to make the experience fun and interesting for the person.

I think perhaps I was a bit of an exception when I transitioned into wine appreciation - my first love among wines was an Alsace Gewurztraminer and when I began to enjoy reds, it was with a Spanish Carignan blend. So it’s interesting to me to observe others learning which wines are right for them, at least in the early stages of wine appreciation.

A friend of mine has been experimenting with wine over the past few months and I like recommending wines to him, especially since he seems open minded about it, and since he’s not pairing the wine with food, it’s a little easier to make recommendations. So far, it seems New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, Italian Pinot Grigio, and lightly oaked American Chardonnays are his favorites. What’s really interesting to me is that most new wine drinkers seem to transition in with Riesling as the slightly sweeter characteristics make the wine’s acidity more palatable. Yet so far my friend isn’t particularly fond of Riesling. Now with the cooler months approaching, I’ve suggested a few reds to him, so I’m looking forward to hearing how he enjoys them.

I’m just very happy when someone trusts my judgment and takes my suggestions on wines to try - especially new wine drinkers - and I’m even happier when I hear their reactions to these wines. Thank goodness for open mindedness and willingness to try new things!

Sud de France Languedoc-Roussillon Tasting

2011-09-16T09:51:00.000-04:00

This week I had the pleasure of attending the Sud de France Languedoc-Roussillon tasting here in New York. After enjoying a few bottles from Languedoc-Roussillon this summer, I was happy to try some more, and while I tasted many wines at this event, I will be focusing mainly on my favorites.

The 2010 Gilles Louvet Element Terre Sauvignon Blanc is very pale in color, with big aromas of bright citrus, a bit of tropical fruit, blossoms, and plenty of herbal notes. On the palate, the citrus flavors were dominant with some of those green characteristics as well - the wine is very bright with a long finish and would be very food friendly and easy to pair, and I think this is an ideal summer wine.

Another white from Gilles Louvet which I enjoyed was the 2010 “O” Chardonnay, which is a nice example of a Chardonnay that balances fruit and spice very well, with notes of tangerine, lemon, apple, and baking spices and honey. It has those buttery and toasted characteristics indicative of a nice Chardonnay, a smooth texture with just enough brightness to make it food friendly, and a respectable finish. A white like this is a good way to transition from the summer menu to the cooler months.

My favorite Rose of the tasting was the 2010 Val d’Orbieu Les Deux Rives, a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Cinsault, with a lovely pinkish color and characteristics of somewhat ripe berries including strawberry and raspberry, a bit of blossom, and just a hint of cherry to finish. The wine starts off very elegant, light, soft, and smooth, and finishes with a bit of bright tartness.

The first of my two favorite reds of the tasting was the 2005 Prieure de Saint-Jean de Bebian blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvedre. The wine has characteristics of darker fruits and berries, somewhat bold spice, and a hint of chocolate, with a big presence yet a very smooth texture and nice balance of acidity and tannin. I’d say this is a wine best for cooler months and for pairing with hearty dishes.

The other red that I felt really stood out was the 2008 Mas de Soleilla Les Bartelles, a blend of Syrah and Grenache Noir. A very dark wine with many layers, I thoroughly enjoyed its complexity with its ripe fruit, bold spice, wood and earth notes, and excellent structure and lengthy finish.

A Lot To Learn

2011-09-09T11:24:00.002-04:00

I don’t have any kids of my own who would be starting school this week, and it’s been quite some time since I was in school of any kind, yet for some reason I still think of September as the turning of the year, rather than January. I hear plenty of people say that they miss going back to school (and for the life of me I can’t understand that) - I don’t miss commuting at some unearthly hour to attend classes. I don’t miss doing homework into the wee hours of the morning. And I certainly don’t miss things like physics and calculus. But just because a person is no longer attending classes doesn’t mean he or she should stop learning.

I started teaching myself about wine while I was in law school, and while I had some time for wine self-education while studying law, I wasn’t able to self-educate nearly as much as I can now, since I’m no longer reading case books and writing term papers. While the things we learn in school at any level are often interesting and important, there are lots of things we can teach ourselves. And among the many things I’ve taught myself outside of school over the years, wine is by far my favorite topic.

So many people have asked me how I got so “into” wine. And the answer isn’t all that simple. But ever since I was really young, I’ve enjoyed research of any kind, and so when I began experimenting with a few wines several years back, I decided it was a topic worth researching, worth learning more about it - the grape varieties, regions, production methods, history, etc. And the research was addictive; wine seemed to be far more interesting to me than anything I was learning in law school at the time. I didn’t know it back then, but I was discovering my passion for wine. And it was a perfect accompaniment to my favorite pastime - cooking.

It’s important to me to keep on learning every day - not just about wine of course. And even though school is pretty far back in my rear view mirror, sitting for the Level 1 Court of Master Sommeliers course and exam several months back reminded me just how important it is to keep on learning. There’s so much to know, and for me, that’s one of the most exciting things about learning - that there will always be more.

“Riedels in the Dark"

2011-09-02T12:10:00.000-04:00

It’s been almost a week since Hurricane Irene hit us here on Long Island and so many others along the east coast. And we were without power for quite some time. The Yankees/Red Sox series was only available over the radio and there really isn’t a lot to do in the dark while listening to the ball game and playing poker, except for drinking wine. I couldn’t have any white wine at home either - since there wasn’t any power to run the refrigerator - so I’ve been trying lots of reds that I haven’t had before, from some of my favorite regions - and a few regular favorite wines as well.

Perhaps you are familiar with J.R.R. Tolkien’s The Hobbit, particularly the chapter where Bilbo Baggins is finding his way through the darkness, which was the tunnel where the creature Gollum lived. While making his way through the dark, he came upon a treasure - the One Ring. Had Bilbo not been making his way through this dark area, he would not have found this treasure. This chapter is called “Riddles in the Dark.”

Each night I’ve been trying these new (and relatively inexpensive) reds - and I call this part of the evening “Riedels in the Dark.” I can never emphasize enough the difference a proper glass makes, and my glass of choice is Riedel of course. And during “Riedels in the Dark” I found my own treasures.

For our first night in darkness and while the weather was still miserable, the wine was the 2009 M. Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhone, a blend of Grenache and Syrah. This Rhone has lots of fruit characteristics, mainly red fruit and intense cherry and berry, with gentle spice and pepper, and has a relatively soft feel.

2009 M. Chapoutier Belleruche Cotes du Rhone

I gave some thought to what the next evening in the dark should bring, in terms of wine - Pinot Noir has been my “consolation wine” choice for some time. It’s soft, velvety, and yet bright and uplifting. And after seeing so many trees lost and so much damage in our community, including the loss of one of the most beautiful trees at home, I was feeling pretty sad and knew exactly which Pinot I wanted. I chose the 2007 Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinot Noir. This wine is modest in alcohol and has a very smooth yet bright texture with lovely structure, and characteristics of mostly red fruit, berry, some cherry, and soft spices, with a touch of wood, and plenty of earthiness (which is one of my favorite characteristics in a wine, particularly those of Burgundy). It’s safe to say that Pinot Noir is a great remedy after a day of hurricane cleanup.

2007 Louis Jadot Bourgogne Pinot Noir

Lately I seem to be giving a great deal of attention to Malbec - I appreciate its big presence and dark characteristics of stewed berries and bold fruit, floral aromas, spices, and warmth. The Malbec I chose for “Riedels in the Dark” was the 2008 Proyecto Mas Ave Premium Malbec from Mendoza, Argentina. This wine, a bit high in alcohol, made for a fun night. With just a few candles to help me pour, I was unable to see the wine’s color - but I didn’t need light to determine how dark and deep this wine is. On the nose, both dark and red fruits rush from the glass, followed by some bold spice and purple flowers, particularly violet and lilac. On the palate, dark berry, plum, and vanilla are present, and the wine feels soft and nicely structured with a lasting finish. I was happy to find yet another Malbec to add to my list - and this was a treasure in the dark for sure.

2008 Proyecto Mas Ave Premium Malbec

The next installment of “Riedels in the Dark” brought with it the 2005 Colinas de Sao Lourenco, produced in Bairrada, in Beiras, Portugal. The wine is a big, bold blend of Touriga Nacional, Aragonez (Tempranillo), and Baga. The characteristics include lots of fruit, particularly dark cherry and raspberry, gentle spice, wood, and a cool stony finish unlike any finish of any wine I’ve tried before. I really liked this wine - it softened as I allowed it to breathe, and the stony, earthy characteristics became more apparent to accompany the big fruit characteristics.

2005 Colinas de Sao Lourenco

In the spirit of trying those somewhat “off the beaten path” wines, the next night in the dark featured the 2008 Chateau de Gaudou Cahors, a blend of Malbec, Merlot, and Tannat. I’ve tasted this wine before and enjoyed it once again - fairly dark in color with characteristics of plenty of fruit, more red than dark, some spice, mineral, and lots of earthiness - which makes this a more rustic style wine and very much to my liking. While I tend to enjoy oaky wines very much, sometimes I’m just looking for a wine that leans more toward earthiness over oak. And a relatively simple, rustic wine such as this Cahors is a good example of that, at a very reasonable price. The texture is smooth and I think the wine would be pretty food friendly.

2008 Chateau de Gaudou Cahors

And then came Cabernet Day - and I was ready with my 2004 Chalk Hill Cabernet Sauvignon from Sonoma - and after a rough day near the end of a rough week, I came home to my Cabernet to prepare for the “taste and tweet” - and my lights were on! Power had been restored to our area after what was beginning to feel like eternity. And, corkscrew in hand, I approached my long-anticipated bottle of Chalk Hill Cabernet, grabbed my newest Riedel Bordeaux glass, and poured myself some wine in the early evening light. The 2004 Chalk Hill Cabernet Sauvignon is a soft yet deep ruby color with fairly high viscosity. Aromas include red and dark fruits, mostly stewed, with lots of wild berry, raspberry, and hints of blueberry and blackberry, plum, lots of oak and baking spices, dried flowers, earth, dark chocolate, coffee, and leather. On the palate, most of these characteristics are confirmed, with bold fruit, baking spices, and leading up to a beautiful blend of raspberry and chocolate. The wine is very well balanced with good acidity and a clean feel and supple tannins, a soft and smooth sensation indicating there is still plenty of time left for the 2004 to age. The alcohol is present and the wine feels a bit warm, but still feels lower than the label would indicate, at 14.9%. This wine is bold, deep, complex, and beautiful, and as I let it breathe for a while, I enjoyed it even more. Next time I have a bottle of the 2004, I think I’ll pair it with steak - it is such a big wine with tremendous presence, yet so smooth and elegant - and very much the kind of wine I needed to round out the week. The finish is long and full of fruit with gentle spices, and kept me coming back for more. And as soon as possible I’ll be going back for another bottle; the 2004 Chalk Hill Cabernet Sauvignon is wonderful.

2004 Chalk Hill Cabernet Sauvignon

My week of “Riedels in the Dark” became sort of a celebration of new and exciting red wines but I’m ready to go back to life with electricity again, and the first thing I intend to do is chill some whites before the summer ends.

Three Grand Slams

2011-08-26T09:31:00.000-04:00

My Yankees just made history - they hit three grand slams in one ball game. There aren’t too many things more exciting than a grand slam, at least in terms of baseball.

Yankee Stadium

I’ve experienced a few grand slams recently in terms of wine as well, some beautiful wines that left quite an impression and were so exciting while I enjoyed them. The wines themselves left an impression, but it was also the way they made me feel that was memorable - I was excited, I was fascinated, and I was really pleased with each of them.

The most recent was the 2007 Ferrari-Carano Alexander Valley Chardonnay, which was paired with lobster flambe at Casa Rustica here on Long Island. The pairing was perfect - the light golden Chardonnay had notes of lemon, apple, orchard fruit, pineapple, and tropical fruit, gentle spice and pepper, and baked aromas and flavors, and that buttery characteristic that I love so much. The texture was soft and smooth and the finish was long with just a hint of sweetness and spice. The wine mirrored the lobster and its sauce and the pairing was almost magical - it brought both the dinner and the wine over the top. For a Chardonnay lover like me, this wine is near perfect, especially with lobster flambe.

2007 Ferrari-Carano Alexander Valley Chardonnay

Another grand slam sort of pairing I had fairly recently was at another Long Island restaurant, Vintage Steakhouse. With my filet mignon, I had the 2006 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon. I had actually looked first at one of my favorite Pinot Noirs, and then at a Barolo, but ultimately decided on the Phelps, and I am so happy I did, as it is now among my favorite American wines. Cabernet Sauvignon, probably my favorite red, leaves me most satisfied when it’s big, bold, and special. And the 2006 Phelps is just that - inky purple and loaded with deep fruit characteristics, bold spices, smoke, and an overall dark ripeness about it. The texture is soft and full, and wine is elegant and well balanced, and the finish is long and memorable. As soon as I took my first sip, I was really glad I had not gone with Pinot or Barolo that night - this Cabernet is amazing.

2006 Joseph Phelps Cabernet Sauvignon

One of the most exciting wine moments I’ve ever experienced came just hours after I graduated law school several years back. We opened the 2000 Louis Roederer Cristal Brut, and it was my first extraordinary Champagne. I think it’s safe to say that just about everyone feels happy with a glass of bubbles in their hand, but this was different, and every time I went back for another sip, it felt like a special privilege to be tasting it, and to know that beautiful bottle had been opened to celebrate my special occasion. Aside form the gorgeous bottle, the Champagne itself has a lovely appearance, with a somewhat light golden color and very small bubbles, and characteristics of green apple, a hint of white citrus and peach, white flowers, an indication of gentle spice, and wood, and some toasted characteristics. The way it all came together, plus the elegant texture, and big presence that surprised me very much - to me, it was everything a celebratory bottle should be, and it was a sensation I’ll never forget.

2000 Louis Roederer Cristal Brut Champange

I’m asked fairly often if it’s really worth spending the money on an expensive bottle or wine or on a pricey bottle of vintage Champagne. My feeling is that yes, it sure is worth it, because investing in such a bottle gives the buyer the opportunity to experience something truly great and exciting. You have no chance of experiencing something special and memorable otherwise. And I’ve heard so many baseball fans complain that going to a game is no longer worth the cost - it’s easier to sit at home in front of the tv and watch the game. However, it’s not possible to get the same sensation at home as when you’re actually there to feel the crowd electrified when something great or memorable happens - like a grand slam, or a no-hitter, or that elusive triple play. For me, hearing the crack of the bat for a home run or the pop of a cork of a special bottle of Champagne - I immediately realize something special could happen - something I won’t want to forget. Yes, it’s worth it.